Had quite a few requests for the arrow finish, so I'll just post it here. Have to give the credit to my friend Tom who refined it for arrows.
Tom Kiessling's process for making wooden arrows using the
epoxy/acetone finish.
1) First thing I do is stain shafts. I usually use aniline dyes from Gray Ghost Archery, but any stain will usually work. I only stain to where the stain and crown will meet.
2) After stain dries, using 0000 steelwool to remove any raised grain, then stain again if necessary to achieve desired color.
3) If I don't have any epoxy formula made up, I use the following procedure for that.
*I purchase Devcon 2-ton epoxy and a can of acetone from Wal-Mart in the paint section. I use a 4 ounce jar (baby food or mason jelly jar) to squirt the entire contents of epoxy in to. I then completely mix the 2 epoxy parts until clear. I then add 1 ounce of acetone (1/2 jar) and stir until the epoxy appears to have dissolved and looks only like acetone remains. I then fill the jar with acetone and stir again for a few seconds.*
4) Applied one coat of epoxy as described next.
*Always wear chemical resistant gloves, I use the blue Nitrate cloves that the tools trucks (Snap-On, Mac) sell to local automotive and diesel garage mechanics. I use small cotton rags from t-shirts.
Hold arrow at nock or point end, make one long continuous swipe from end to end. Then rotate shaft 180 degrees and do again. (Do not attempt to double wipe on same side, the rag will stick to the first coat).
5) After epoxy dries, check for raised grain. Remove if needed.
6) Apply a second coat of epoxy.
7) I will mark the shafts for my crown. I use 2 inch masking tape at the crown line. I then spray the crowns on, (I usually use Krylon enamels, and usually 2 coats will be enough). **If you are going to use fluorescent colors, always spray a basecoat of white first.**
8) After crown dries, apply cresting lines (Testors model paints work great).
9) After crown and cresting are COMPLETELY dry, spray or brush the crown and crestings with a thin coat of Min Wax Water Based Polyacyrlic (blue can). I prefer to brush mine on while shaft is in my crester. (I use an Arrow Specialties crester).
10) After poly dries, apply second coat.
11) After letting poly dry an hour, apply first coat of epoxy over entire shaft. Make sure to check wiping rag for paint residue after first arrow to insure that acetone is not attacking cresting and crown. If paint is being attacked, crest the arrow if needed, and give another coat of poly over all arrows. Some paint will show up from the nock end where there wasn't any epoxy.
12) If all is ok, I will usually put on 5 to 7 coats of epoxy,make sure to smooth out finish very lightly with 0000 steel wool between all coats.
13) I then set nocks using Duco cement, and mount feathers with either Bohning Fletch Tape or regular super glues (not the gel stuff).
I prefer the tape. This makes for easy feather repair if needed.
Make sure to remove any excess epoxy from the nock taper first,the cement will stick better. I do this with the small blade of my pocket knife.
As far as wood arrows not being as accurate, well.......look at some old footage of Ben Pearson, Howard Hill, the Wilheim brothers, etc. The catch is getting good wood arrows and knowing how to match them to your bow. Get it right, they'll shoot as good as anything. Problem is it can be hard to find really good wood shafting, match it up, etc. Lots easier to buy aluminum or carbon that's already matched.
I don't shoot wood for the nostalgia, I shoot them because I like them. As long as I do my part, they will do theirs.
Chad
Topic: Making perfect arrows (Read 831 times)
