What is your preferred arrow finish ?

[Brianlocal3]

Like the title says.
What is YOUR preferred arrow finish? Why?

I really like Formbys Highgloss. Why..... I have been using this finish for a longtime in my woodworking projects , I have an understanding of it and have perfected my application process. It is nothing more than a wiping varnish, but alas they all seem to respond and work differently and I just have my system down with it.

I am new to wood arrows so I have been experimenting with different finishes, and application processes.  I have tried dipping , which I love the fact that two dips is a nice glass like coat , but I'm still sticking with my Formbys.  I can have a good thick coat on in two days time and am happy with it.

So tell me about your finish

[KeganM]

My buddy Tony used Massey style epoxy finish (thin two ton with acetone) on his wooden arrows, and I was incredibly impressed. When I shot wood I used 3Rivers water based, but it was a mess. Wish I'd tried the epoxy. His arrows took a lot more abuse without needing any touch ups, and when he did he just wiped some on the spot and in twenty minutes it was good to go. I tried the finish on a selfbow, and was incredibly impressed with how durable and easy to apply it was(I did wax it afterwards for a really water tight finish though).

[Stumpkiller]

MinWax poly satin.  Not shiney and doesn't smear my Sharpie crests.

[guspup]

Minwax Poly, waterbase, or oil base - semi gloss

[Wudstix]

Minwax poly water base - semi gloss

Watco

[slowbowjoe]

I wipe on two or three coats of Tung Oil. Got the idea reading a post here, someone mentioned it was lighter, by around 30 grains,
than poly's, and my preferred shafts were weighing in higher than I wanted.

With the Tung Oil, I've been getting the weights right where I like.
I've been using three coats lately, on most of my arrows.Two good coats works well and save a day of drying time. Three coats start to look similar to the poly's, the third coat usually looks better than the two, in durability and appearance.

 Simple to touch up, easy to work with, don't need a dip tube ( of course I have one anyway, dipped my first few dozen in water based poly). I make pretty simple arrows, have had no issues with compatibility with the Minwax stains, & Sharpies, duck, fletching tape, etc.

Mainly, the advantage for me is how light they finish. I'll be following along to learn more about some of the other finishes.

[Drewster]

I use Minwax Wipe-on Poly water based Gloss.  The gloss is a little harder finish than the semi gloss.  Minwax isn't as tough as ProFin, but a lot less expensive, easy to clean up and easy to apply with a piece of soft cloth.

[Jim Wright]

Minwax wipe-on Poly, oil base. 4 coats with enough time between coats to dry hard and slick. If you shoot into 3d targets and get wear up front you can just re-apply over the worn area, it will blend in fine.

[Fletcher]

Minwax oil base gloss poly thinned a bit; 3 dips.  I find the oil base to be a much tougher finish than the water base and the gloss is tougher than the satins in any finish.  I prefer to dip, but you can wipe on straight from the can, just keep the coats thin.  Thin coats make for a tougher finish and much less if any target burn.  Lots of folks like the water base finishes such as Polycrylic.  I tried several and they just didn't hold up for me like the oil base.  Profin is a very good finish, too, but not easily obtained in the Midwest.

[Bud B.]

Originally posted by Drewster:
I use Minwax Wipe-on Poly water based Gloss.  The gloss is a little harder finish than the semi gloss.  Minwax isn't as tough as ProFin, but a lot less expensive, easy to clean up and easy to apply with a piece of soft cloth.

I mix Minwax gloss with mineral spirits. About 50/50. Excellent hard finish. If I want to dull it I'll steel wool it.

Dip tube.

[darin putman]

I use the massey finish but substitute denatured alcohol for the acetone, have tried it both ways. Just got finished putting a coat on an osage self bow and a dozen surewoods about an hour ago. For me it's the easiest finish around. Kids brought me an arrow they found in the woods the other day broken but finish done its job well. Used a hickory selfbow all winter in all types of weather finish held up great.

[Bud B.]

I should note I use the thicker Minwax oil poly and cut 50/50 with mineral spirits. I leave it in the tube with no setup issues over time. Filled it last Nov and used the same stuff a week ago to seal a crested carbon Gold Tip. Had to dip most of the arrow to get to the cresting on the already fletched shaft.

[Zradix]

Minwax wipe on poly ( oil based)

I start with a few coats of gloss and finish with a few of satin.

Goes on easy and smooth with bounty towels.
Dries quick
Local hardware carries it.
I use it for bows too.
Duco grips to it very well for my feathers.
Fletch tape sticks to it well also
I can write something on one layer of the finish with a sharpie and then go over with more coats with zero smearing.

[gringol]

1. Tung oil
2.  Minwax wipe on poly
3.  Tru oil

Tru oil is actually great stuff, but stores around here dont carry it except in aerosol cans.

[Orion]

I still use Fletch-lac, but I'm planning to change to a less toxic finish.

[Brock]

I use plain minwax wipe on water based poly.....light smoothing between coats with scotchbrite pad until sealed or reach level of gloss I want.  Usually 5-6 coats is all I do for our humid wet hunting in southeast.

[Brianlocal3]

Nice to hear what y'all are doing

[M60gunner]

I have been using Gasket Laq. the last few years. I have had cracking issues lately. There was a thread about this not to long ago. When my supply is gone I am going back to Wipe On poly.
I do some woodworking and like to try different finishes. I am thinking of using hot boiled linseed oil to "age" the shafts first. Then apply the wipe on poly.

[joe skipp]

After staining the bottom portion, Minwax Poly w/o thinning it out. 4 coats hand rubbed in, lightly steel wool in between coats.

Then it's Fletch Lac paints for my crown dipping.