Walnut Board Bow & Chrysals

[ChristopherO]

Well, I did it.  Last Saturday I painstakenly whittled out a Black Walnut bow of 51# @28".  This is attempt number 6 and the first, I do believe, that could make meat!  BUT,,, I'm noticing the fine stress lines on the belly after shooting approximately 150 -200 arrows through it.  I realize that the functional life is limited at best but will it hold up long enough to hunt with this fall or is it now regulated to hang on the wall?
If an early retirement is it's lot then I will be happy with the Martin Pioneer but if it can last out a month, + or -, of sitting in the woods and maybe a shot or two at deer that would be satisfying.
Thanks for any experience you pass on, Christopher.

[BillJ]

I built a hickory backed walnut bow about a year ago, and experienced the same thing.  I've been afraid to shoot it since I noticed it, but I'm such a newbie at this stuff that I may be over reacting.

So I'm interested in hearing any replies you get on this, too!

BillJ

[ChristopherO]

TTT,
I'm sure with the wealth of knowledge out there in Tradgang Land there has to be an opinion or answer to our question.  Have at it, men.

[KILLER B]

I built a red oak board bow early this spring and have been shooting it like crazy. Shortly after i started to shoot it i also was aquiring some small crysals. From what i have read on here as long as they don't keep getting bigger it's ok to shoot. I have probably shot a 1000+ arrows from it since I noticed them.  Shoot it until it makes a loud pop or until your too scared to pull it back.  Thats just my 2 cents though.

[Aram]

Walnut makes a beautiful bow but not a long lasting bow (at least that is my experience.) I had made one I really liked. It shot hard and quiet. It lasted about six months and then it exploded in my hands with no warning at all. No blood but it was pretty frightening. The bow blew up into three or four pieces. Next walnut I backed with bamboo for insurance. The walnut belly went limp as a noodle as soon as I put a short string on it. I know I'll try walnut again someday but those are my only two tries so far. I say shoot it while it lasts. My guess is it will last through the season. You can try backing it with silk if the stress marks make you nervous.
By the way, where are the stress marks? Do you see any hinge developing? How long/wide is the bow?

[Aram]

sorry,
double post  

[ChristopherO]

The stress lines are small but noticeable in the sunshine.  They are on the upper limb about mid way.  On the lower limb they are congragated in the lower portion of the limb where the grain runs off the side of the limb.  This was a hinge area when I began tillering but by much work and effort a little kink only shows when unstrung and is non existent when braced and pulled.  I realized it was a weak area when I started but that was the board at hand at the time.  I'm thinking that black walnut makes a beautiful bow with a higher weight with less limb mass than the red oak bows I've make but the chance for fizzures is much higher.  The silk idea is a good one to keep it from popping me in the face and let me hunt with it this fall.  Thanks.

[John Scifres]

Chrysals are almost always fatal.  I sure wouldn't count on it as hunting bow.  It will change as you shoot it and you will never be able to have confidence in its performance.  Eventually, it will die.  Probably sooner than later if you only have that many shots in it and it already chrysalled.

What design did you use?  Walnut makes nice looking furniture.  If it is the only wood you can get, make the bow wide and long and less than 50#.  

You need bow wood to make bows.

[tim-flood]

usually the little lines mean the bow is bending more there than down the limb.  Like the Professor said wider and longer, 2" above the handle 1-3/4" at mid limb and 1/2" at the tips and 68" long will make almost any wood make a bow.

[ChristopherO]

John,
It is basically your and Ferret's design as I used your pattern off the build along.  It is, also, very much like the perfect white wood bow design on pages 92 & 93 of TTBB volumn 1.  There they say Black Walnut will work but it is one of the softer woods.  66" ntn, 1 3/4" wide to midlimb then down to 5/8" at tip.  
I'm waiting on Hickory to be sawn at the local mill and anticapate a better bow then.  Thanks for the reply.
Now I know the name for this pretty little piece:  The Wallhanger

[bvalentine002]

From what I have heard, Walnutis not terribly strong in compression or tension, but is medium density and weight, with decent MOE. SO,it makes a good lamination for fiberglass.
-Brett

[BamBooBender]

Black walnut can make a really sweet shooting bow if it's design is right for the wood. I haven't yet made one myself yet, but have seen a few and they were really nice.

you have a PM.

[John Scifres]

Red oak is cheaper than walnut and has a proven track record.  Ferret's design is best used for better whitewoods like hickory or good oak, ash, elm or maple.  I'd go with 2" wide with an unknown or light feeling wood.  

But remember, you're trying and learning.  Never, ever feel bad about that.  Lots of folks don't even try.  Or they read about it saying "Someday, I'm gonna do that".  I've sold a lot of wood to people who contact me years later and say they never did anything with the wood they paid good money for.  I hate that.  Proceed with cautious optimism...but by all means...PROCEED!

Excellent try.  Now go get 'em!

John

[Lost Arra]

Right on John!    

I like the quote by Saxton Pope (I think it was him): Beginning bowyers should build their first bows with great enthusiasm but without hope.

Sort of the way I hunt....great enthusiasm but without hope.   :D

[Shakes.602]

Good Quote "Lost Arra"!! I figure thats How My First Attempt will be! Gotta Break a Few Eggs to Make an Omlette!!     in the Process, Life Is  GOOD!! !!        

[George Tsoukalas]

Chrysals have 2 causes. First cause, because of the tillering one area is bending more than the rest of the limb.  These are usually localized to one area. The remedy is to shoot it with some superglue and retiiler. Leave the chrysalled area alone and retiller above and below that area. Retiller the bottom limb to match. You can also put a match on the chrysalled area. I've used birch bark. Second cause, improper design. Bow too narrow or too short. Chrysalls are all along the limb. No fix. How long a bow with chrysals lasts is unknown. I've shot some of my chrysalled bows for at least a year. Some didn't last a day but literally folded up like a book. Rest assured. If you kae bows for any length of time you'll see them. I hate'em! LOL. Jawge