? about string follow longbows

[Gregg S]

A string follow longbow is supposed to be about 5 fps slower then a straight longbow of the same weight and length. So, how many more lbs. of draw weight would be needed to get the string follow bow to shoot the same speed as the straight bow? How about a back set bow? The reason that I'm asking is that I have a longbow that has back set and is 46# @ 28" that I really like and I'm happy with the speed of that bow. I'd like to get another longbow and I am considering a string follow but I'd like to have it shoot about the same fps as the bow that I have. If I needed to go up 2 lbs. that would not be a big deal. % lbs. and I may just stick to the back set. What do you think?

[Orion]

I haven't set up a test myself, but have read reports/posts from several others.  Generally, they're saying a pound increase in bow weight increases speed about 1 1/2-2 fps, all other things being equal. Or, looked at the other way, a 5 fps increase in arrow speed requires about a 2 1/2# increase in bow weight.  I'm sure there are diminishing returns as bow weight gets very high.

The difference between a set back bow and a straight bow is about the same as the difference between a straight and string follow bow, again, all other things being equal, which they usually aren't. That would mean you would need to increase your bow weight 4-5# to get the same performance out of a string follow long bow as your longbow with setback limbs, all other things being equal, i.e., design, length, limb material, etc.

On the other hand, you could get a string follow bow in the weight you like shooting now and just accept that it's going to be a few fps slower.  Not a big deal at hunting ranges. Good luck.

[Gregg S]

Orion. Thanks for the info. It is very helpful.

[Cudahunter]

I second Orion,well said. What are trying to achive with a string follow ? Curiosity ? Forgiveness ? I'll add if you do your homework,get a string follow that is matched to your draw length ( not a 70 incher ) get a efficient core / taper design and quality core woods,you'll get some speed back.Just my 2cents

[Kris]

 

"...is 46# @ 28" that I really like and I'm happy with the speed of that bow"

It is worth recognizing what you are saying here.  Hard to improve sometimes on what you already like.

Just saying....  I am responding because I too am looking to get a SF Hill (Orion knows this) because I like them and I like how they shoot but I am not trying to set myself up with an expectation of a certain arrow velocity.  What's my point....hmmmm?  Be honest to to yourself about what you really want and why? (advice to myself mostly).

I've owned a SF before and really liked it but that was some years ago and the bow was only a 62" and kind of heavy for that length @ 59#, I will  be getting 66" or 67", 54#@28" for a nice accurate, easy shooting LB.  Every other post on the "Hill Bug" says beware, Craig's bows come 2#-3# heavy and even as much as 5#-6# in some instances.  I really only draw a Hill (broken wrist, bent elbow) about 27", so so I am accounting for that weight that way.

Also agree with Cudahunter.

Good Luck  -

Kris

[7 Lakes]

I build them both.  Depending on the materials used & length in both bows, plan on 2.5# to 5# heavier in the string follow bow.

[Butchie]

Mike,

Does the SF bow 4-5# heavier feel 4-5# heavier?  I've heard many say that it feels like you're drawing less even though it's really more weight.  Is this due to the lower early string weight in most SF bows.  Really considering this type for my next longbow.  Thanks!

[Gregg S]

Thanks for the thoughts and the info, all very good points.

[Charlie Lamb]

I find no noticable difference between string follow and back set longbows. It's about perception more than the numbers on a chronograph.

Back in the 70s we made few with about 3/4" follow.  They were a little slower than our other bows, about 15 yards less distance with the same arrows. It could just as easily been the result of the glass and glue we used, the glass had the peel off strip and the cross pattern for adhering to urac.  They were all over 80 pounds so there was plenty of cast.  A newer one I had with less pull was slower than my current favorite bows.  My draw is less than 27" and the bow was dead at that draw.  A friend that had longer draw got a lot more out of it, so it is  his now.  If you have a shorter draw, it may help if the bow is built considering the user's draw length.

[threeunder]

I've got a Northern Mist Shelton and a Classic that are both 52# @ 28".

The Shelton feels smoother on the draw and has less handshock, but there is a small bit of speed loss.

I like the Shelton better.

One thing to keep in mind, anyone shooting a Hill style longbow doesn't have speed as their main concern.  There are lots of styles out there that are faster.  Few are sweeter to shoot though.

[lbshooter]

With glassed bows of the Hill design, I personally have not been able draw a conclusion as to differences in  smoothness, feel, hand shock, or accuracy comparing a string follow, straight, or slightly backset bow. I have noticed differences in bows of similar limbset that may have had to do with other factors  due to  things like riser weight, length, limb thickness etc.  Also have found each longbow I have ever owned to have it's own individual feel, even if it appeared very similar to another and was produced by the same maker.