3D woodies and target burn

[Knawbone]

I'm not a carbon shooter and wish I were at times. Especially when shooting at 3D shoots ect. The target burn on wood arrows can get quite tough on any finish. I'v been thinking of ways to lessen the effects of TB on my woodies because I don't like shooting carbons. I'm thinking of ordering some chubby bunnie field points (that should help) I'v tried oil on the shafts, which helps, but becomes a pain to apply for every shot,not to mention the mess. What other methods or ideas can be used to remedy this problem? Who else is a die hard woodie shooter with some tips for ol' Knawbone?

[macbow]

Remember that being the worst thing with the wood arrows along with loosing points now and then.
Used oil, silicone, scotch brites.
Tried different finishes. Nothing worked very well.

I now like the skinned bamboo arrows and don't see the burning.

[Sam McMichael]

Sorry, Knawbone, no help here. But that is an issue I never worried about. After all, they are arrows, simply a tool - even those as beautiful as Snag and the other guys make. I just consider it a natural product of diligent practice.

[M60gunner]

I know how you feel. TB is the reason I gave up using poly finishes. I did find that I could re-finish the burn area by cleaning with 0000 steel wool and wiping on a few more coats of wipe on poly.
I used Gasket Laq. also, not as bad but still burns in some targets. I am mulling over ordering some pure tung oil from China. Read a report on another site out of UK about how this stuff doesn't burn.
That stuff for carbons in the little tube is ok but gets on your hands if you are not paying attention when pulling arrows.

[Knawbone]

I hear ya Sam, just thought someone may have a trick or two I was unaware of. Tools they are and their all I'll shoot out of my HH's        Thanks Sam

[Knawbone]

Thanks Gunner!

[Surewood Steve]

The poly finishes have less target burn than Fletch Lac.  I also use the steel wool trick and re finish.

[McDave]

I've found that rubbing a bar of soap on the tip and front part of the shaft helps with removal from the 3D target. Maybe it would also help with target burn, I don't know.

[Knawbone]

Your an Ivory guy aren't you McDave!    

Thanks that's a good Idea, I'll give it a try.

[JB74nola]

Try out armor all some one suggested it to me, I haven't had a chance to try it out yet.

[LBR]

Bar of soap--just a few swipes ever 2nd or third target, just on the last couple of inches.

Epoxy gives the most durable finish with the least target burn of any I've tried.

[Stumpkiller]

I use wipe on MinWax satin poly and it has MUCH less grab than lacquer.

[snag]

Depending on the targets it is hard to completely eliminate target burn. Some targets are just tough on arrows. But I find that one of the Daly's products does better than the MinWax products and others I've tried. Then waxing it, either with a paste wax or using soap and buffing it with a cloth, does work pretty well.

I use Watco oil finish and Stanley Amber hot melt, it takes a lot of heat, but points don't come off and I can still spin check my point alignment.  The Watco dries slow if you use a lot of it and it helps to hang them outside in the sun and the breeze.  They don't burn and if you begin to wear through it, a light wipe down puts them back to new.  I don't do anything fancy for crown dips, I glue feathers with plain old Duco and they stay stuck.

[killinstuff]

Sikken marine varnish is the best finish for arrows and you will not have target burn if you use it.  Costs $35 or so a quart though.

[Tim Finley]

Armor all works you just have to keep putting it on from time to time it also makes carbon arrows easier to remove from the target. Use it on your bow too !!!

[hvyhitter]

car wax helps alot.........

[Knawbone]

Thanks for the great responses everyone. Bar soap and some new finishes to try!

 Keep em coming.....good stuff!

[Red Beastmaster]

In over 25 years shooting wood arrows I never once heard of or cared about target burn.

I learned something today.

[Duncan]

What Stumpkiller said. I also wax mine with beeswax. Same stuff you wax your string with. Just rub some on like you would the soap someone mentioned then use a cotton jersey rag to buff it. Slide it briskly through the rag and the friction will heat the wax enough to coat the shaft.