Which broadhead/opinions

[bulldog42]

So I recently sold all my compound stuff and am finally going all traditional. I have a Howard hill halfbreed coming in the mail within the next few weeks that will be 52lb@26". What I am trying to do is decide which broadhead to go with and I would like any and all input from you guys on what I am trying to decide between. I am looking at either the winsel woodsman elite, Simmons landshark, or NAP hellrazor. I have been shooting a Magnus stinger out of a longbow of my dads but have not been very happy with the flight compared to the field points which are the same weight. I am looking for something that will hopefully fly great and the same as my field points but will still be great for hunting with. Thanks for any and all help.

[old_goat2]

If the stinger isn't hitting where your field points are and assuming it isn't bent then it isn't the stingers fault. They are one of the best flying broadheads on the market and if you consider the cost and their lifetime guarantee they are one of the best deals going. All the other heads you mentioned are fine heads too though. I personally wouldn't go with the NAP Hellrayzor though. It's length to width ratio doesn't really lend itself to the mechanical advantage you want when shooting traditional gear.  Wait till you get your new bow and tune arrows to it, when the arrows are flying true with no fish tailing and no porpoising then pick a broadhead that weighs the same as the field tip you got good arrow flight with and it should hit the same. I personallyhave used nothing but Stingers and Buzzcuts the last few years. This year we are using Grizzlies because we wanted to go with a single bevel broadhead.

[TURKEYFOOTGIRL]

What point weight are you looking for. I have tried a bunch of those heads and believe 100% in the Simmons lineup. The tiger shark and safariheads are my favorites!

[NBK]

Originally posted by old_goat2:
If the stinger isn't hitting where your field points are and assuming it isn't bent then it isn't the stingers fault. They are one of the best flying broadheads on the market and if you consider the cost and their lifetime guarantee they are one of the best deals going. All the other heads you mentioned are fine heads too though. I personally wouldn't go with the NAP Hellrayzor though. It's length to width ratio doesn't really lend itself to the mechanical advantage you want when shooting traditional gear.  Wait till you get your new bow and tune arrows to it, when the arrows are flying true with no fish tailing and no porpoising then pick a broadhead that weighs the same as the field tip you got good arrow flight with and it should hit the same. I personallyhave used nothing but Stingers and Buzzcuts the last few years. This year we are using Grizzlies because we wanted to go with a single bevel broadhead.

Agree 100%.

[Fletcher]

You'll get plenty of opinions on this.  We are both shooting about the same weight, draw and bow type.  The Woodsman/VPA is a great head and will work beautifully at your draw.  In a Simmons, I prefer the narrower Safari/Interceptor.  The Ace line of broadheads are great; the 165 Express has been one of my standards for years.  Grizzlies/Kodiaks are great heads along with the STOS and Zwickeys.  There are others, too.  I'm not a fan of replaceable blade heads, so have no positive input on the NAP.

The Magnus stinger is generally a pretty good head.  Your flight issues are more likely to be the result of less than great arrow to bow tuning.  Field points are much more tolerant of minor tuning discrepancies than are broadheads.

[JDunlap]

If I were you I would take another look at your tuning. The Magnus stingers that I have shot flew like darts. You might also try the regular Magnus 2 blades. They are great heads that are easy to sharpen, tough, and fly excellent; My arrows/bow were not perfectly tuned when I was using the magnus 2 blades and they still flew great. The Woodsmans are a good choice also. Have fun.

[Stephengiles]

I have both stingers and woodsmans, they're both great heads in my opinion.  I use the unvented woodsmans and they're a a touch quieter in flight. I agree with old goat2 on this one.

[bulldog42]

Yeah just throwing it out there since I'm honestly not sure. The setup that I am shooting is a 50lb@28" Bamabows elite that is tuned to that 28" draw length since that is what my dad shoots. Could the fact that I only have a 26" draw have a major impact on the whole system since I am not pulling all the way to 28" like the arrow is setup for? As for what I will be shooting, it will definitely be gold tip traditionals with 5" fletchings but I am not sure what weight head I would need because I'm not sure if I will need 3555's or 5575's.

[old_goat2]

Yes the two inch draw difference would make a huge difference. The arrows would become way to stiff. You would need a much heavier point weight. Shoot me a PM with your email and I'll send you an article I wrote for my archery club newsletter.  I'm sure their are some good resources for you to read on tuning arrows but I don't know them off the top of my head. Maybe start a post asking for some references to that end. Don't buy any broadheads until you have arrows and have them flying prefect and I'd guess you will be shooting the 35/55's. Where in Kansas are you, there are quite a few guys on here from Kansas on here that might be able tohelp you.

[bulldog42]

Alright sent a pm old_goat2. I am located in the very SE part of Kansas. Thanks everyone for the inputs so far

[SlowBowinMO]

Stingers generally fly so well I find them pretty much useless for broadhead tuning.

[old_goat2]

Originally posted by Braveheart Archery:
Stingers generally fly so well I find them pretty much useless for broadhead tuning.

That's funny!

[KSdan]

This is the site/article I use. From acs bows. . .

 http://www.acsbows.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderfiles/tuninglongbowsandrecurves.pdf

The only modification for me is I don't shoot shafts comparing fletching to non fletch.  I just watch the arrow followed by a little paper tune as well (I just shoot through one side of a cardboard box in front of the target it reveals a tear.)  

Once I get a perfect flying bareshaft- broadheads seem to fly perfect.

Dan in KS  (feel free to email or PM me)

[Guru]

Either one of those shafts will be too stiff!

You need to be looking at .600 spine arrows unless you plan on leaving the 35/55's real long and loading the point end with a lot of weight.

That's the reason your bh's aren't flying well bud.

Learning good arrow flight with trad bows is a fun learning curve    

[LittleBen]

Originally posted by Guru:
Either one of those shafts will be too stiff!

You need to be looking at .600 spine arrows unless you plan on leaving the 35/55's real long and loading the point end with a lot of weight.

That's the reason your bh's aren't flying well bud.

Learning good arrow flight with trad bows is a fun learning curve      

agreed

[Bowwild]

I shoot curves at my 26" draw at 45-50 pounds of draw weight. Like Guru wrote, you'll find 600's with 100-125 grain broad heads (if with 50-75 grain inserts) or 500 spine with heavier terminal gear to shoot much better. That is if you want to cut the arrows just a inch longer than your draw length.  Or you can leave the arrows longer and weaken the spine.

For instance, I can shoot a 29" arrow with 100-125 grain points or go to 150+ grain points with 27" arrows. I prefer the shorter arrow.

I stil own, tune, and shoot a compound but I hunt big game with my recurves.  The compound with its highly adjustable arrow rest and draw weights is a lot easier to tune to a variety of arrow/point options, But, once you get the combination dialed in with your LB and arrows you'll be set and have a very durable, dependable rig.

[awbowman]

agree X3 on the 35/55s.  I shoot a Super D, 49#s @ 26".  If/when I use 35/55s it takes a 29" arrow (if I remember right) with 225 grains up front.  They fly and penetrate well inside 20 yards, but they are loosing trajectory fast outside 25 yards.

A 35/55 will allow you to get a heavy arrow ........ so that's good

[JamesKerr]

To answer your question about what broadhead I would recommend it is not really one but a list of a couple I have used and really like. First off would be any model zwickey head I really prefer the delta 4 blade but I am also shooting a lot more poundage than you at 60# @ 28" so I might be inclined to go with an eskimo or no mercy 2 or 4 blade whichever you wanted. Another great option is the original woodsman head. It leaves a great blood trail and penetrates as well as most two blades. The third option in my view would be to go with the narrower simmons sharks like the tiger shark or land shark. I just got six of the tree sharks earlier this year to try on turkeys after seeing some of the wounds they leave. If they perform for me like they have for others they may take top position in my deer quiver as well as my zwickey delta 4 blades.

[mahantango]

Guru is spot-on with regards to shafts, as far as broadheads, I am sold on Grizzly, Zwickey Eskimo, and good old Bear Razorheads. With your draw length/weight I'd personally stick with two-blade heads.

With a 26" draw on a Hill for someone new to traditional archery, whether you go for carbon or wood, it is very helpful to have someone with Hill experience help with arrows.  I have my best results with new people going to Hills with tapered cedars and Zwickey broadheads.  Hills love cedar arrows. Of course I make the shaft selection after I watch them shoot, but getting a broadhead sharp and keeping it that way is a bigger challenge for some than they anticipate.