Anyone switched from CE Heratige to Gold Tips?

[Jhawk]

I recently moved and can't find my good arrows.  They are probably in a box somewhere that will turn up in about 2 years.  

My set up is a BW CHX, 48# 26.5".  I have been shooting CE Heritage 150's but have been right on the verge of too light.  I have them cut as short as they can go.  Now that I am going to need to buy some new arrows, I was thinking about trying some Gold Tip's and see what I think.  

If anyone has made the switch, will you tell me your thoughts?  Thanks, Sam.

[Keith Langford]

At 48# and that short of an arrow the 150 should not be too light, I would go with 35-55 gold tips. Why do think they were too light? when you get below 29" on a carbon they stiffen up drastically with every 1/4 " after that

[Pete McMiller]

I went the other direction.  Started with GTs and went to CEs.  Can't really say why, I just tried some CE250's and really liked them and haven't gone back to the GTs very often.  I have CE90, 150, 250 and 350 and GT 5575 & a couple 7595s.  I still shoot the GT 5575 once in a while but mostly the CEs.  You certainly can't match the price of GT Blems at Big Jim's when he has them.  Can't say anything bad about the GTs, just a personal preference thing.

[Jhawk]

Keith,

I forget the exact amount of weight I have up front, but I think its 145 with aluminum insert.  I tune with a bare shaft and can't cut any more.  They fly well but I would like about 1" more arrow than I have.  I also have some 250's that fly well but I don't like all the weight up front.

I thought maybe the Gold Tip would be just enough difference to give me what I am looking for.

[Bladepeek]

I can't imagine a 3555 being too weak cut at 29" or less. I shoot them from my 46# bow drawn 28" with 175 up front.

[Alexander Traditional]

I've got a 53@28" bow and pulling a little more and using a CE150 cut to 32" with 145 grain  up front. I'm with Langford.

[awbowman]

CE 150s or GT 3555s should not be too weak.

I find the CEs a little tougher than the GTs and they are a little heavier.  

Having said that, I recently started shooting GT 3555 blems almost exclusively because of the price.  They are good arrows and you shouldn't be disappointed.

[[email protected]]

I switched from CEs to GT.  If memory serves me there was about 80 grains difference in shaft weight.

I took that 80 grains and "converted" that to increased point weight,from 170 grains to 250 grains up front on the GT.

My overall shaft weight (560 grains) did not increase.  Shafts do penetrate deeper.

Bob

[cacciatore]

I went from the GT TO THE heritage as well,they are heavier and are more accurate on spine

[RLA]

Your bare shaft don't lie trust it, I would try a GT 5575. You can get a test kit from Black Widow, try a 3555 & 5575 if your set on GT's. The kit comes with internal weights 20gr's & 50gr's 3 of each to try in the inserts & a nock adapter that will let you add weight to the nock end if need be, Widows eat up spine, they're notorious for it, I like the CX's a little better than GT's.

[KAZ]

I personally like the CE Heritage shafts better but indeed it's a preference thing. I too am a little surprised that your setup is too weak, but everyone is a little different. If you don't already have a wrap(s) designed into your setup, that would help stiffen things a little and may get you what you want... I like to add a 7" wrap AND the 7" Clear protective wrap over that which adds weight to the nock end of the arrow and effectively increases the dynamic spine of the arrow and a little mass weight. It will reduce your F.O.C. some but not a big deal for your setup. You could also add a 20 grain gold tip nock coupler to your setup which would increase dynamic spine and increase the length of your overall setup by about 1/2-5/8" or so.... Just some ideas, I have CE Heritage 150s 28.5" long with the double wrap, 3-5" Feathers, standard inserts & 175 grain heads that fly real well out of Black Widow 53lb@28" draw that I pull 27.5".... If I add any tip weight from there I'll start going weak but I would think you'd have some flexibility with your shorter draw & lighter weight... Again, just some ideas.

[LostNation_Larry]

I've sold GT's for the past 10 years and they have served me quite well.  I don't understand the complaints about spine variation as I've tested quite a few and those out of spine are few in number.  We sometimes get customers wanting to try three of this and three of that and we can usually accommodate.  My recommendation would be to read all the input then call a shop ask for a "test kit" that is tailored to your situation.

[**DONOTDELETE**]

Originally posted by cacciatore:
I went from the GT TO THE heritage as well,they are heavier and are more accurate on spine

I started out with CE Heritage and went to GT last year. But I have to admit i think the CE arrows were tougher shafts and i agree they are more accurate on spine.  I only got 20 good shafts out of 2 dozen GT blems.

I'm going back to CE Heritage series this year. Worth the extra money to me.

[Keith Langford]

jhawk, if your bareshafts are showing weak, it may be because they are actually too stiff and bouncing off the shelf and giving a false weak indication. this is very common, not saying your wrong, just something to consider, you can verify by switching from 145 to 200- 225 field tip and see what you get then.

[njloco]

I have shot 1535's & 3555', both shoot excellent out of my present bow, Jack Harrison HSS, 51 @ 26.5. I have shot the 1535 arrows with 360 gr up front, the flew perfect !, I have and do shoot the 3555's with 225 gr up front, I also shoot the heritage 150's with 225 up front, all of them fly perfect out of the bow, bow is paper tuned only.

Good luck and, hope this helps.

[skunkhound]

I switched to the CE's because they just seem to fly better out of my bow, and for the added weight. I don't want to have to put all my weight up front to hit 10 gpp.

[Jack Hoyt 75]

I actually am switching from CE to GT right now.  I like the GT's. High quality, tight tolerances and very strong.  I think the CE shafts break or split to easy on say a not so perfect shot.  Blemished shafts from the nocking point or big Jim is the way to go.

[Blaino]

I got some CX 150 for a form bow that is 40#@30" the 150s are too weak cut 30.75" with 100g up front. I was really suprisied. Next, I thought I was getting a false reading...  200g and I can't keep them on a block target at 10 steps (bare shaft).

I'll set them 150's up for my wife and get some wood for myself. Wood is where it's at anyways!

[BigJim]

Blaino, you are getting a false reading out og the cx, they are too stiff for a 50lb bow without extra weight up front.  Probably bouncing off the riser or shelf.

They are both good shafts once they are properly set up. I am currently shooting the cx 150's (new slightly lighter spine) out of my 55 at 32" cut past center recurve with 185g up front. I'm only drawing about 31.5"s though.

I have a bunch of Gold Tip blems coming in next week too...no such things as CX blems though.

Thanks, bigjim

[meatCKR]

X2 on what Big Jim says.  I shoot a CX 150 cut to 27.5" BOP. I am drawing 26.75" on a 58" Osage Great Northern Critter Gitter that is marked 58# at 28" so I'm probably holding 55# at my draw length. The shelf is cut 1/8 positive of center.  Loaded up the front with 300 grains for a total weight of 606 grains.  They fly like darts and hit like a ton O' bricks. The Gitter by the way has an actionwood core and is a total joy to shoot.  It is my soulmate.