skinny string build question

[silent sniper]

Hello everyone, I am about to venture into building my own strings. I would like to make some "skinny strings" for my cari-bows. I haven't yet ordered supplies or a how to DVD yet. I just wanted to know if anyone has any pointers before I start making my own strings?
  I can easily make a Flemish jig so that wont be a problem.
  My one question is this, is a skinny string the same as a regular Flemish twist, just with fewer strands and larger padded tips?
  Ive read somewhere that people pad their string tips with a different material than the string, say a D10 with B50 tips. Is this difficult?

  Sorry for the dumb questions, I have zero string making experience but I am about to change that. Any tips would be appreciated. Thanks SS

[A.S.]

I pad my loops with the same material I use for the string.

Just take good notes as you start building. A lot of it is just math along with trial and error.

[Pete McMiller]

Ditto on taking notes.  Unless you are building strings for friends or going into business you will forget the important stuff.

You can pad your loops with the same material - I think people pad with B50 because it's cheaper but there might be another reason.

Same construction techniques for skinny.  Personally I make a two bundle 8 strand of D10 with loops padded to 16 (without checking notes).  

Tip is to unwind or reverse twist before your second loop to combat 'cabling'.  For me it's about 24 reverse twists (clockwise) in order to get the string to come out right.

If you are getting the DVD I would imagine that most tips sre already in it.

My last string I wrote on my jig "hole #67 for my 66" R/D" and "7 1/2" lead before loop twist"  and "24 clockwise reverse twists".  I always forget and sometimes forget to take notes   :rolleyes:

[Scott E]

I use B50 for padding because its cheap and thicker. x2 on taking notes. It will probably take a few strings before you get one at the right length.

Invest in a good serving tool and buy a few different diameters of serving material so you can get a custom fit for your nocks. With a skinny string teflon tape is handy for laying under your serving to get it thicker.

What material are you going with?

[LBR]

My one question is this, is a skinny string the same as a regular Flemish twist, just with fewer strands and larger padded tips?

Similar build, just more complicated. Low strand count strings stretch/creep more.  How much more depends on the material, draw weight, how many strands, etc.  You also have to build up the nock point to get a decent nock fit.  You can pad out under the serving, double serve, or build up the nock point.


 

Ive read somewhere that people pad their string tips with a different material than the string, say a D10 with B50 tips. Is this difficult?  

It's not hard at all.  I use B-55, but not to save money.  Even with the most expensive material, padding the loops costs maybe a penny per string.  I like B-55 because it seems to make a quieter string.

I strongly suggest building a string board that goes by string length, not bow length.  Depending on the make, a bow marked 64" may need a string anywhere from 58" to 62.5".

Learning to make the string properly will make more of a difference than whether it's "skinny" or not.

[silent sniper]

Thanks for the replies everyone!  As for material I don't know what to try. I see a lot of people use D10 so I figured it may be a good place to start. Is there a better string material than D10? How does it compare to fast flight plus? Thanks SS

[Bjorn]

About the only thing that has not been mentioned is that the string must be very even so that the strands are loaded the same, this is very important when fewer strands are involved and breakage can occur due to only a couple of strands carrying most of the weight. I used to go to 4 strands for a 35 pound bow; but no more-not enough margin for error. Six (D10) is the minimum for me now and 8 for a 50# bow. If you are new to string making make several 12-14 strand strings and use them to make sure you are making a good string. Chads point about Dacron being quieter in the loops is very valid. One more point; any claims about breaking strength made by the manufacturer is most likely a calculation, and not a real test. A few years ago I personally tested most materials myself and they break at about half the load a mfg will claim. If they say 90# it is probably 45#. Feel free to conduct your own tests. LOL What a pain in the rear!      

[Caughtandhobble]

SS,
Here's Ryan's video that helped me get started. Good luck and have fun. Oh ya, did anyone mention taking plenty notes along the way?      

Ben

  http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=135235#000000

[Rob DiStefano]

what chad said, he's one of the best bowstring makers around.

there's more of an art to twisting the flemish cord than spinning the endless type.  both will get the job done if you build them right.

i also pad skinny string loops with dacron - its softer and i think more "protective" than hmpe on the limb nocks.

as to the effectiveness of skinny strings, or any variation of string fiber and strand count - each bow and archer is different and it can pay to try string variations to see what will work best for you and a particular bow.  much easier when ya do it yerself.

[LBR]

The best materials on the market as far as being the highest grade material are 8190 and BCY-X.  Both are made with SK90 Dyneema.  Don't know how they compare to FF+ I've never used it.

[trad_bowhunter1965]

Originally posted by Caughtandhobble:
SS,
Here's Ryan's video that helped me get started. Good luck and have fun. Oh ya, did anyone mention taking plenty notes along the way?      

Ben

   http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=135235#000000  

DITTO
There great DVD's on how to build string but Ryan's video help unstand how many back twists I needed.