Arrow tuning

[BCR1985]

Hi gang!

I've been tuning a howatt super diablo. 60" #40@28. I'm drawing about 28.5 to 29. Surprisingly the reduction in draw weight has actually increased my draw length! I have some beman mfx classics spines at 600 which is 8.6 gpi. These are cut to 29.5. Using 125 grain field points. To me this set up seemed ideal but I'm consistently getting arrows fish tailing and striking to the right with nock left. Shooting a yo buddy bear target which is pretty hard foam. Any suggestions? I'm thinking about switching back to poc but I'd like a 5/16" diameter. Any setups to recommend with these specs?

[mahantango]

I assume you are a right-handed shooter? I also would expect these to be pretty close. I know it's a hassle with inserts installed and fletched shafts , but try cutting them back 1/4" at a time if you can.

[JimB]

Sounds like you need to try 500's.

[Cavscout9753]

Had pretty good luck with the 3 rivers arrow calculator. Free, easy, and will likely get you in the ballpark to where you can just tune brace and strike plate width.

[Matty]

Originally posted by JimB:
Sounds like you need to try 500's.

X2

[dragonheart]

I am shooting a Super Diablo recurve also.  I am shooting a dacron bowstring.  I will say that the Diablo, I am shooting required more arrow spine.  I am shooting 60# @ my 27 1/2" draw and 195 grains on the nose total weight with insert, and 28 3/4" arrow with feathers and a wrap, 2216 (375 spine).  I went up from a 2117 (400 spine) and my set up is shooting more consistent.  I bet if you did the bare shaft test, you would discover that you are just underspined.  I have always liked to be a little over than under.

[dragonheart]

If you are shooting 3-5" feathers and the standard HIT inserts, I ran your setup on the Stu calculater.  I have found that the Martin Dreamcatcher works for the Super Diablo on the Calculator.

Stu says you are about 9# weak in spine for the bow.  You could shoot lighter points which I would not suggest.  

I would stay with the same MFX arrowshaft in a 500 size, go with 3-5" feathers with a heavy fletch wrap like the ones you can get from 3 rivers, and 9/32 145 grain field points to match the size of the shaft.  I would not cut the arrow off any shorter than what you are shooting at 29.5.

[Fletcher]

You could try building the side plate out just a bit.  That would confirm that you need a stiffer shaft.  Doesn't sound like you have much shaft to cut.

[olddogrib]

My guess is that you'd be very close with a normal diameter shaft.  When the Axis/Beman skinnies came out folks didn't always realize that the reduced diameter effectively magnifies center shot characteristics.  If a bow riser is cut much past center a skinny shaft can be resting at or very near the centerline (like a compound). This is not ideal for a finger release with a shaft recommended to go through normal paradox. As has been stated, you can drop point weight, cut length, build out the sideplate or go to 500's.

[BCR1985]

Thanks gang for all the great advice! Instead of buying a whole new set of shafts, maybe I should just sacrifice one of the 600s and cut it down incrementally? should stiffen a bit. and I think I could take a half inch off without affecting my draw. thoughts?

[BCR1985]

another burning question...is there such a thing as a 5/16'' 125 grain glue on broadhead?

[AaronW]

zwickey eskilite - 135gr

[AaronW]

zwickey eskilite screw in- 135gr
zwickey eskimo glue in 125gr

[jhg]

Regarding arrow flight, if bare shafting, the first time you have a tuned arrow you will be blown away by how it flies compared to all the other "almost" bare shafts.
 Like shot from a cannon, on target and straight as, well, an arrow. Its unmistakable- but has to be experienced to really appreciate.

Don't settle for anything less.

Joshua

[dragonheart]

If you cut the arrow too short you are going to make the set up critical.  My Super diablo is cut in past center.  I would try building out the side plate with thin leather before I cut the shaft shorter.

[BCR1985]

Ok i'll give it a try. I've never tampered with a site plate before; when you say build it out do you mean actually putting more material between the strike plate and shaft? Is there a particular leather type you'd recommend? Thanks for all your advice!

ps guys: the zwickey glue on eskilites for 5/16 are 110. Still on the search for a heavier bh..

[mahantango]

Yeah, I didn't catch your draw length in your original post. By all means, try building out the strike plate. Don't know what you have on there now, but thicker leather, multiple layers of carpet tape, 3M foam mounting tape, felt type furniture pads, fuzzy side of Velcro will all work.

[JamesKerr]

I would think with a longer draw than 28" you are going to need a 500 spine shaft. You might could get the 600's to work if they were cut just barely long enough for your draw length with a 125 grain point, but that may also make them a little light for your bow. I think a 500 spine shaft with a 150 grain point should get you in the ball park.

[BCR1985]

Ok there's been some success. I think I've been able ot tweak my form a bit to the point at where my 600's are flying true. The 500's are consistently kicking at 20yards, so i'll just tuck them away for my #45 bow.

On another note, I just received my rose city archery spine test kit! 5/16 shafts cut to 29.5 with 125 grain field points and 4" shield cut feathers. Spine range was #30-50. Took a bit of time, but it appears that it'll be a toss up between the 40-45 and the 45-50. I'm inclined to go towards the heavier spine, but the 40-45's fly noticeably faster. Any suggestions? (Still drawing 28.5-29.0)

 All in all, i'm very happy with the quality and performance of these shafts!

[ishoot4thrills]

Originally posted by Fletcher:
You could try building the side plate out just a bit.  That would confirm that you need a stiffer shaft.  Doesn't sound like you have much shaft to cut.

Yes, just build out the side plate. If you're arrows are too weak this will fix it, as long as you get the right thickness through experimentation.