Best way to glue and remove inserts in carbon shafts

[Jim Harris]

I just got some Beman carbon shafts to try. What is the best glue to use on the inserts. Also, if I have to remove the inserts, what is the best way to do this without damaging the shaft. Thanks, Jim.

[vermonster13]

If you want to remove them later use Ferr-L-Tite. Then you can then you just heat a field point to remove.

[zilla]

I use AA epoxy on mine.. I do not want em coming out ever.. The AA keeps em in place...

[Jwilliam]

Are you asking about removing them because of bare shaft tuning?? If you are trying to figure out what length shaft you need I epoxy an insert in one arrow. Then when I want to shorten the shaft I just pull out the nock and cut off the back. Once I figure the proper arrow length for my bow I cut the rest of my arrows and epoxy the inserts in.

Bill

[MikeS]

I just use Ferr-l-tite, like Vermonster suggests.  Easy to replace and the stick well with few problems.  Seems to be the easiest way for me.
Mike

[Jim Harris]

Thanks for the replies guys. I should have mentioned I wanted to bare shaft test these shafts. That is why I would remove the inserts. I hadn't thought of cutting the nock end of the shaft. I have several ways to go here. I'll try these and repost my results. Again, thanks for the help on this.  Jim.

[ejes]

Jim, you might try what I do to bareshaft carbons.  I take a plastic bag like you get at the grocery store and put it between the insert and the arrow and then push the arrow down onto the insert.  Then I just tear the bag away from the insert and trim off the excess with my fingers or a knife.  There is enough friction caused by the plastic between the wall of the arrow and the insert that it stays in enough to bareshaft.  Most times I have to use a pair of pliers on the field tip to get them out they are in there so good.  Never lost a point in the target with this method. They are much easier to take out and put in that way to get you to the length you need plus you don't have to keep reheating your arrow over and over, which can be hard on the resin that holds the fibers together.

[TaterHill Archer]

I put some in with Ferr-l-tite yesterday.  first time I had used it in years.  My field point and inserts are still in the target.  Everyone came out on the first shot.  Now I remember why I quit using it.  Admittedly, I've never had this many failures, but it cured me today.  I'll use golf club epoxy or JB Weld from now on.

[Jim Harris]

ejes, I like your idea using the plastic bag to hold the insert in for bare shaft testing. I am going to give that a try.
After I get my shafts tuned I'll be going with the JB Weld or golf club glue. Thanks, Jim.

[insttech1]

Hey Jim,
I just picked up some Bemans at the compound shop, and they sold me some "rhino melt".  It is a LOT like hot-melt, but melts at a MUCH lower temp and is designed for carbons.

I used it on a half dozen and like it a LOT!  For $4 a stick, give it a go....you just re-heat the field tip, and pull it out.  I have some tap water on hand just in case to cool the shaft down quick, but that's more so I can handle it than fear of damage.

I don't ordinarily take too much "stock" on what the wheelie-bow pro-shop types tell you in order to sell new gimmick crap, but they did say that they built up 3000 dozen carbons with rhino melt, and had no melting shafts...

Take Care,
Marc

[TaterHill Archer]

I also put some 100 gr inserts in with the golf club epoxy, but I wanted to change them out.  I put a steel point adapter in the insert and heated it.  Turns out the golf club epoxy is heat reversible and they pulled out without harm to the shaft.

Great stuff and will be my go to from now on.  Costs about $8 for 8 oz bottles and will last quite a while.  A definite 24 hr epoxy with great hold.

[ejes]

Jim, please let me know how that works for you.  I think it works much slicker than having to go back and heat it up every time you cut some off.  But then again, I'm anal about it and only cut off 1/4 to 1/2 inch at a time.