cutting the arrow for tuning

[beaunaro]

I'm fairly new to this process and am trying to get a 3555 GT to fly out of my Bear TD.

It's an 2013 model A riser with 50# #1 limbs (56" bow).

I am a righty, draw 27"

I would like to use a 100 grn brass insert and a 175 grain head so I get some pretty good weight and FOC up there for penetration.

I guess I have heard that I should be removing the insert each time and cutting from that end.

Does it hurt to cut from the nock end? (obviously easier). If even just to get that first model arrow built.

I know one would not do this with a tapered shaft like the ADs.

Can anyone get me close?Like an idea of what the length ought to be, or do I have to go thru the painstaking 1/4" cuts all the way from full length?

I know I cannot add it back on so obviously if you told me that the arrow I was looking to achieve should be about 29 1/2"....I would cut at 30, then start taking off 1/8"at a time.

Any help is appreciated.

[McDave]

With a similar bow weight, but drawing to 28", I would typically use a 29"  GT 3555 shaft with either a 100 grain or 125 grain tip, depending on the bow.

I would guess that the additional 150 grains up front would more than compensate for the inch less in draw length and the related effect on draw weight, so you would probably need a shorter arrow than I use.  You'll need at least a 28" arrow shooting broadheads.  It's possible that your setup may result in too weak of a shaft at that length, so you'll either have to go up to 5575's or reduce your point weight.

There should be no problem cutting GT's from either end.  If it were me, I'd cut off 1/4" at a time, and not bother with 1/8", but if you think you're good enough to tell the difference and have the patience, then go ahead.

[Wheels2]

GoldTip actually recommends cutting arrows to length from both ends.  The arrows are straightest away from the ends.  Therefore an arrow that may run .003  at full length may actually yield a much straighter shaft once the ends are removed.  For some reason, they have found that areas of diminished straightness are more pronounced at the ends of the shafts.
I start with a bit off of each end, square the cut ends, and insert nock and fletch.  Once fletched I install the point insert, and try shooting them.  
I use only the Ferr-L-Tite Cool Stick (blue stick) glue.  Easy to use, as strong as anything else I have found, and easy to remove inserts by simply heating a tip and inserting into the arrow until the insert warms enough to loosen the glue.

[Orion]

I pretty much agree with McDave.  I think you'll be real close if you cut them to 28 inches.  Start with one and find out. Might follow Wheels advice by cutting an inch or two from each end to get to 28 inches. Good luck.

[ishoot4thrills]

I wouldn't cut them at all.

Put the weight you're wanting on them and if they're too weak, just add material to the strike plate on the bow. That way, you're not risking cutting too much off of the arrows and you can always sell them easier when they're too long rather than too short.

[meatCKR]

I would recommend Stu's calculator as another tool to get you close.  I have found it not perfect but it does get you in the ball park and you can fine tune from there.

[BigJim]

Cut from the nock end. it will be easier. YOu should be fine with 3555, although you are stacking the weight on.
I like heavy foc, but that is a little excessive...unless you like it.
BigJIm

[kevsuperg]

For what its worth. I have 3555 @ 29 1/4 with 3x5 1/2 inch feathers.  Out of a 62" bear Alaskan 45@28 I have to shoot 300gr up front to get bullet holes bare shaft and to get them to shoot where I look with fletching. That's 25% FOC @ 600grs they only fly @ 140fps.  
 This weekend at sawmill I shot 1535 GTs with 135gr up front 4x4" fletch and they flew great.  Haven't chrono'd them yet but they definetly fit my bow better.

[Roadkill]

We test arrow/bow combinations in the shop often.  Take a piece of clear platic, aput around the insert.  Jam it it in and add a point.  Usually good for half doze n test shots.  Put a heavy nail in the nock end a shake until the insert pops out.  Works for a few test shots.  I like trimming from both ends, altho i may never shoot well enoughto see the difference