Feathers on "Full Metal Jackets"?

[Old Gobbler 1]

Having a problem finding the right glue for keeping feathers on Easton`s "Full Metal Jacket" arrows. Does anyone have any advice that may help, Thanks....

[Tradcat]

If you're not using a cap wrap, then make sure you wipe the area to be fletched with some denatured alcohol before hand. Just wet a paper towel with the denatured alcohol and rub the area to be fletched aggressively and then let dry.... You should be good to go

[TradBrewSC]

If you are trying to glue directly to the aluminum surface without a wrap I would use duco cement or fletch tite platinum.
The "super glue" types don't work well on aluminum.

[grouseshooter002]

Wipe well with denatured alcohol as mentioned then use fletch tape and finally place a drop of fletch tite platinum on both ends of the quill. This imo works better then glue.

Grouse

[tracker12]

I use one stringer wraps on my FMJs as glue on the feathers with Bob Smith Industries adhesive.  That stuff is amazing.

[Bill Carlsen]

Super glue works for me.

[happy1]

NPV Arrow Mate Fletching Glue works great. Have not had a feather come off.  I also clean the shaft first with denatured alcohol.

From all the responses above, it sounds like all the glues work fine. You just need to clean your shafts first!

For what it is worth, I always used Fletch-tite when I shot aluminum arrows,but they did not have "Platinum" then.

Bisch

[damascusdave]

My fletching guru just did some for me...he sells arrows to archery shops and guarantees his fletching will not come off...he only uses fletching tape

DDave

[Gooserbat]

I just clean mine with alcohol and fletch with Gorilla brand super glue.

[bowhuntingrn]

Custom wraps from Onestringer (with double doggs)and then Loc Tite Ultra Control Gel (recommended by Onestinger). Haven't ever had one come loose.

[elkken]

I used onestringer wraps and platinum fletch tite .. I had some failures without the wraps but none since

[Old Gobbler 1]

No wraps on these arrows. Have had NO success with the Super Glue and Duco Cement straight to the aluminum even after wiping with Acetone. A little force and they peel right off....

[bigbadjon]

Fletch Tite Platinum is what I use for bare aluminum and cap wraps. I also have has little luck with Duco on an undipped shaft. You also need to give the feathers 24 hours before you shoot. In my opinion a wrap or dip is a much better medium for a glue bond than bare metal. I would at least consider a clear wrap if you don't want a decorated arrow.

[pitt98]

All i shoot are FMJ's that I 4-fletch.  Try the Bohning Fletch Tape, it works so well for me that I won't ever go back to glue.  I have fletched countless dozens of alluminum, carbon, ACC's and FMJ's with it and have yet to have an issue.

[CoilSpring]

Acetone is a strong solvent and is used to disolve super glue, if you get your fingers stuck together. Any residual left on the shaft, if fletched too soon (not let dry) will weaken the super glue bond - likely also weaken Duco???

I usually degrease shafts with alcohol, but also wipe them dry, and air-dry for a couple hours.  Even a carbon fiber surface can hold some moisture, even when they look dry, immediately after wiping. Glues don't like moisture.  

My wife's fingernail polish remover (Acetone+moisturizer) will not allow glues to bond well, because of the added moisturizer - an oil/lotion.

Also, if you wipe/clean the shaft with a solvent or alcohol, using a tissue, ensure the tissue does not also have moisturizers (lotion) in them (eg.  Puffs Plus). The "Plus" is lotion in the tissue, which prevents adhesion. They're great for the nose, but not my arrow shafts.

Some paper towels also have additives preventing adhesion.  An old cotton t-shirt washed in plain water and air-dryed works great to apply acetone or alcohol, but also dry the shaft prior to fletching.

Just mistakes I've made...

[52 bow]

I just gently steel wool (fine) the fletching area and never have any problems.I don't even leave any marks on the FMJ and use platinum glue. No smell - no mess !

[mountain lion]

Saunders mpv

[oldbohntr]

It's more than what we used to consider "clean" though.  One of the advantages of FMJ shafts is they are small diameter and slick(!).  When I bought my first half dozen the dealer-a high tech guy-told me he had learned the hard way to "sand" the shafts if you weren't going to dip or use wraps.  I didn't challenge that, and I've not had an issue. But, some that I've bought used on this forum shed their fletches quickly.  I think this is an especially slick surfaces and will perform as well or better than any shaft out there, but we just need to be certain to pay attention to the details.  This surface is not very porous...to anyone who has glued anything to anything else, that should tell you some things!

I consider FMJs to be the best shaft that has been developed to date.  Sometimes there is a learning curve with such things.