Point Me in the Right Direction

[Joshua E. Williams]

Hey All,

I am new to archery, bow hunting, and to this community. I got my bow in February, and I bought a set of arrows just to start out. But, now I am about to buy some new arrows. Will some one point me in the right direction on this blog to some posts where I can learn about what I am looking for in buying some arrows? Any posts would help!

Thanks everyone, and glad you have created this sight!!

Josh

[Rob W.]

What bow, weight, and draw length are you shooting? Also, do you have a certain broadhead in mind and what do you intend to hunt?

And welcome to the Gang.

[Joshua E. Williams]

I have a Samick Sage Take down. 50 pounds at 28" Draw length. And, I have a Bear Grizzly (I think it is) at 50 Pounds at 28" Draw length that a friend gave me recently. I haven't invested in broad heads yet because I am practicing/learning. I hope to hunt everything, but practically that looks like boar and white tail for right now (and any rodents for fun along the way).

[Rob W.]

I really like Carbon express heritage shafts and Gold tips.

If I were starting out I would probably go with Big Jims GT blems and save some money on a great shaft. Depending on your preferred point weight you will probably need a 3555.

Jim will also fletch whatever you want as well.

[moebow]

Josha,

Rob is right but I'll add that we still don't have enough info.  What is YOUR draw length?  How long do you want your arrows?  What point weight do you want to use?

In general (VERY general!!) you will want a shaft of ABOUT .500 spine rating but that is VERY ball park!

Since you are just starting out, a good book like "Shooting the Stickbow" by Anthony Camera can give you a lot of answers.

Arne

[Joshua E. Williams]

Rob W.,

Thank you for the help. How much does he usually go for when selling arrows? I am unfamiliar with understanding point weight. Does he explain that on his website?

Moebow,

I have a draw length is 30" and I want the arrows 31". I don't know how to choose what weight I want to use. I am a rookie at this. I know very little comparatively to you guys.

[Jack Hoyt 75]

Go talk to experts at archery shop near you or call tech support at 3 Rivers Archery.  Get straighten, tightest weight variance you can afford.  Got choice is top end shafts from Easton, Carbon Express or Carbon Tech.  

Do not get blemished GT's unless accuracy is not top priority.   They vary to much in weight and spine from arrow to arrow.  They are rejects from quality control not just cosmetic blems.

Good arrows is just as or more important than a good bow.

For starters a good mid grade arrow is Easton Axis. I would not go cheaper than that for carbon.  Dont rule out aluminum arrows for the learning process and practice now either.  Just my opinion

[Rob W.]

Big Jim has very good prices and I'm sure if you give him a call he can set you up with a good shooting arrow. I think he will also sells 6 at time instead of a full dozen if you want.

That said a good book on the subject, reading here on Tradgang, and trial and error will help you find that perfect setup down the road.

At 30" of draw those bows are different animals than at 26" or 28". Also, the point weight will affect your flight through either stiffing or weakening the spine. Total arrow weight will also come into play and there will be a balance there somewhere.

It seems like a lot at first but its part of the fun and there are a bunch of very knowledgeable people here that are always willing to help.

[Rob W.]

I also have to respectfully disagree with the above comments about the GT's being rejects. They are great shafts and shot by many here.

[Joshua E. Williams]

Awesome. Thanks Rob W. You have been very helpful. Will post back to let all know what direction I went.

Love the community,

Josh

[Joshua E. Williams]

I still welcome more advice if anyone else wants to give it.

[Jack Hoyt 75]

To claify I have some GT'S blems and have shot them.  I am not against them just clarifying the blems is not just cosmetic period. That is a fact, they have failed GT's quality tests and been stamped as blemished. I don't think GT'S would take a high quality shaft, stamp as blems, wholesale them if they were not a reason for it.  Does not mean cant use them just that they are not near same quality as other GT's or higher end arrows.  Great value but average arrow that is it, great for stump shooting.

As I try and improve my form and ability I just don't want to he held back by average arrow.  Just my opinion as stated before.

[Jasper2]

I'm with Rob, get the GT Blems and save some money. They can't be beat for value. Once you find an arrow that is suitable for your bow, focus on form, practice, and enjoy the fun. I wouldn't worry too much about slight variations in weight or spine of your arrows at this point. Proper form and a consistent release are much more important to your overall accuracy...in my opinion.  

Many have been shooting the GT blems for years with no issues.

[swampdrummer]

Josh,
In about 3 weeks the traditional bowhunters of Florida will be having their fall gathering in Ocala National Forest. I HIGHLY recommend you wander over that way. Big Jim is usually there and several other vendors as well. You'll be able to ask questions, pick up arrows, points, fletching and just about anything else you can think of and you can shoot the 3D courses as well.
 http://www.tbof.org/documents/2014_Fall_Flyer.pdf

[damascusdave]

After playing around with many different arrows over a period of 5 years I am coming back to where I started...stick with aluminum arrows until you find some compelling reason to change...just a lot less hassle with them...if you are sure you have a full 30 inch draw you will be shooting a lot closer to 55  pounds and you will likely do best starting with 2117's or possibly 2216's...I am just coming back to them because I am shooting reduced draw weight due to shoulder issues...I have a 30 plus inch draw which has been confirmed many times over a 5 year period...just leave your arrows full length and tinker with dynamic spine by trying different point weight...also take a look at the Stu Miller dynamic spine calculator to give you a better idea of the factors that affect dynamic spine and why we cannot give you a definitive answer...I just reread your initial post and I wonder what you consider to be a set of arrows...when I am tinkering trying to find the correct spine for a new to me bow (I average about 3 a year, oops just did the arithmetic...over 30 in 5 years is an average of closer to 5)I like to try a few arrows of a particular spine before buying more...many people think you can only buy arrows by the dozen...my current arrow source, who it took me 5 years to find, will sell me a single arrow if that is what I want...it will likely take you 5 to 10 years to get good at this...just relax and enjoy the trip

DDave

[damascusdave]

I hate being a Math teacher who cannot do simple arithmetic...that would be an average of 6 bows a year...with only 2 so far this year I am apparently improving (unless of course I mention how much I paid for those two)

DDave

[ddauler]

I guess I am being contrary but Form and Practice are much more important than perfect arrows. I can shoot very well with five different weight and spine arrows if my form is good. Cant hit a barn with fancy arrows with bad form and neither can anyone I know some are world class shooters. With both can I do better of course but good grief the guy is a beginer spend the cash on a coach!!!

this might interest you if your just getting started shooting a bow.

       

[RecurveRookie]

Welcome aboard from Texas!  Samick Sage was my first bow, good choice.

[South MS Bowhunter]

I would also disagree concerning the GT Blems I have shot them for a couple of years now and find no weight disparity in the ones I have.

I buy the shafts from Big Jim and build my own and get them to within 2 grains or less of matching weight.

If there are other defects other than cosmetics I have not found them, neither do I believe GT would put themselves at risk of liability in selling a "defective shaft".