Going with a lower weight bow

[Branpoes]

Hey guys, I've decided after yesterday's practice session that I am going to switch from my 50lb bear grizzly to a 40 lb undecided bow.  I have a few questions.
    I have been shooting the heritage 150s and would like to stay with the brand.  Would the 90s or 75s be a better starting place?  I would like to be able to use tips that are readily available and I have no trad stores near me.
    Next question.  My state limit is 35 lb for most game hunting with the exception of elk(45).  This leads me to assume a 40 lb bow, good placement, and sharp broadhead will kill a whitetail, true?
  Lastly,  what bow?  I'd like to be able to upgrade limbs in the future and am willing to spend up to 600 on a bow.
 Thanks guys.

[jt85]

My sister shoots a 41# @28" Holm-Made Osprey that she draws to 26" and I have no doubt that as long as she does her part it will put meat in the freezer.

[Scott E]

There is thread on here you should search for I believe it's called the 40# kill thread. It's full of pictures of guys who have killed deer with bows in the 40# range. So no worries on that.

For a bow maybe check out the classifieds on here. You should be able to find something in your price range.

What is your draw length?

[Big Ed]

Is there a reason for the big weight jump? You may be surprised how much difference 5 pounds would make , plus it allows you to work towards being able to shoot the 50 pounders some. Maybe you should look for another grizzly so you can make the transition easier.
 Where in PA are you?

[Frgvn]

I would spend about $140 on a Samick Sage or Samick Journey and buy an extra set of limbs for about $75.  Definitely a no frills bow, but it shoots well and I don't feel the need to upgrade at the moment.  Check the reviews (this site and the 3R site).  Seems like just about everyone else praises the Samick Sage and Samick Journey.  Also you can shoot a 62" bow with the Sage limbs and a 64" with Journey limbs.  Sage and Journey have the same riser.

[Branpoes]

Big Ed, I wanted to go to 40 because I want to really work on my form, release....I'd like to be able to have longer practice sessions with less fatigue.  I wanted to go as low as I could and still legally hunt.  I draw at 27 so 40 keeps me legal.  I'm in murrysville PA.
     I've looked at the samick line and honestly they just don't do anything for me visually.
    I kind of like the Hoyt game master.  Any thoughts?

[Sam McMichael]

Even though many of us prefer heavier poundage bows, I think we will all agree that a 40# bow will be very effective on white tailed deer. Just as with any equipment, it is a matter of putting a well tuned and sharp broadhead into the boiler room. I still shoot in the 50 - 55# range most of the time, but I do have several 40# bows ready to set up when I reach the point I need to reduce draw weight. In short, at 40#, you are good to go. Good hunting.

[YORNOC]

Just a thought.
If you are shooting a Grizzly, you are shooting 58", a pretty short bow.
Try shooting a longer bow, up to 64" if need be and you will be surprised at how much you can handle with the longer bow. Easier and smoother to draw.
We have helped dozens of guys with this issue by letting them shoot some of our longer bows at 3d shoots.
Give it a try before you drop that much weight, you may not have to.

[Marshallrobinson]

I don't know why but I feel compelled to put my two cents in here.
I have seen 40# kill and seen 40# wound. I personally hate the saying "if you put it in the right place" because that does not allow for anything other than the perfect shot. Deer move and arrows are redirected while in flight...so perfection is mostly luck, unless you are so close as to make sudden movement on the deers part an impossibility and have zero obstructions between you and the deer.

If you are close enough to eliminate this sudden movement and can hit a softball every time at that distance, then you are golden. Aside from that.. not so much. I am not an advocate of heavy for the sake of heavy but I do think that (at a certain equipment performance level) bow weight (to proper arrow weight ratio)does aid in collecting kills. Kills that include a much larger area of impact, such as when heavy bone is encountered...such as the scapula.

I started out as a very proficient marksman and with a 40# bow, I had wounds due to string jumping deer. When I got to 60#, no more wounded deer. Everything was penetrated that was hit. I personally had no issues when shooting 40# from a ground level situation but once I got up in the tree's, problems began due to a smaller kill area to be aimed at and less drop needed to bring that bone into play. A lot of my problems were eliminated early on by aiming back but still ... I wasn't comfortable with this one solution.

The other thing that weighed into my dilemma was the fact that I had a shorter draw length. My buddy would kill everything with a 40# bow because he drew 3" more than me. Me...I had to bump weight to get his results.

Just something to consider since you asked. I know I am always going to be the odd man out on this subject but only because I had a lot of years and kills/wounds to show me what was true for me. Might be true for you to. That's why I bring it up.

[Bjorn]

I agree with the longer bow being smoother and easier to shoot accurately. 10 pounds is a huge jump up or down. I would recommend trying a 64" RD longbow. Many bowyers will send you one as a trial. Or see what your friends have. I don't know where in PA you are, but a trip to see Mike Fedora is well worth your while.  

[Rob W.]

If it were me I would be looking at starting a workout routine that would allow me to shoot the 50# bow and maybe more down the road. Putting in the work will be rewarding in many ways.

[Branpoes]

Thanks guys.  A lot of good info here and a lot for me to think about.  This is the reason I posted here.  Glad I didn't make any quick decisions or purchases!  
     A couple of points that really opened my eyes.  The longer bow.  I guess I had never heard that a longer bow would change the feel that much.  Also, someone mentioned 10 lbs being a huge jump, guess I thought it was a smaller step down than it is.
   The last one was the post from marshallrobinson.  I know we all strive to "put it in the right spot,".  But let's face it, things happen.  I certainly want to do what I can to put things in my favor.  
  Let me ask this.  What is it you look for when watching someone shoot that let's you know they are trying to pull too much weight?

[Marshallrobinson]

Does the bow shake in the hand at full draw?
Good sign that you are over

Do you pull past anchor after shooting in repetition?
Some people will fight the weight by manhandling the string in an effort to pull the bow back, after tiring

Can you not hit anchor after shooting in repetition?
A weaker person cannot manhandle and will simply come up short

Does the impact of the arrow err left or right after shooting in repetition?
(left impact for right handed shooter)
Again, an example of overdrawing the bow in an effort to control it.

So many things could be suggested but honestly, if you can do 6 shots perfectly then you are not over weight IMO. Not for a hunting bow.
Perfect practice will build muscle and skill. Focus on the first shot and make it count. Dont get into shooting a lot of arrows, thinking it's good practice. It isnt.
Good practice is learning focus and to make that 1 shot count. Eventually, you will get to many shots but many shots are not needed.

My wife is a little thing that cant draw back a compound bow of 50# for very long comfortably, yet she can anchor and shoot (well) a 68# longbow three times before she starts to err. The only fact IMO thats worth noting is that she can hit the spot she aims at with a bow that is overkill for about every animal in north america. It is not important if she can finish a 3D tourney with that bow...which she certainly could not.

Hitting, holding and releasing from a perfect anchor is all you have to do in terms of bow weight. If you can do that, the bow is not too heavy... you just need to work into it.    

Once again .... Just my two cents. Not saying I am right, Just the way I see things here.

[Scott E]

Game master/buffalo is a good choice in that price range.

[Cwilder]

On my Titan I have 40lb limbs but with them maxed out and at my draw they are 47lbs. I'm using a 1964 bear razor head. I've killed a few deer with them and never really had to worry about blood trails since I watched them fall in site. I did kill a deer last year with my heavier weight bow with a vpa 3 blade and tracked that one but the trail was great

[Frgvn]

I have to shoot a lot of arrows to get my form, my muscle memory and my eye in the groove.  I want my form and focus to be perfect and automatic when I am in the field.  Also I love shooting for the sake of shooting.  I choose to shoot a bow that allows me to do these things.

[fishone]

I have shot alot of deer with low to mid 40# at my 27" draw. In my experience you can make a bad shot with a 40# bow and a 60# bow and the results are the same, no deer. I recommend you shoot what is comfortable for you and your bow is tuned with a very sharp broadhead on the arrow.

[cthorsman]

Hi. I know the feeling. If I could pull 60 lb bows I would. (But i can't.)
I had to switch to lighter weight bows after trashing my bowarm shoulder shooting what was too much weight for me. After trying different weights and bows I now shoot a 35 lb at 28 inch draw recurve from a long time custom bowyer. It is fun to shoot and hits suprisingly hard. I now hunt from the ground.
Do what works for you . Good hunting. Craig

[damascusdave]

Although many people imply there is not a whole lot of difference in the velocity produced by arrows shot out of bows with the same draw weight that is not necessarily true...for that reason limiting the discussion to draw weight without talking about the velocity that particular bow is producing is rather naive...I like to use Bjorn as an example in this situation...he is more than content to shoot 50 pounds of draw weight for some rather tough to kill animals...he does this mainly because he is shooting some of the fastest bows on the planet, bows that quietly produce the same velocities as many other bows 5 to even 10 pounds greater in draw weight...take a look at the peteward.com website and the numbers for the new Border Covert Hunter...if I was really wanting to hunt with a relatively light draw weight I would simply sell a number of bows that I have now and buy one of them...a couple of thousand dollars for a bow sounds like a lot until we amortize it over the years we will shoot that bow, and compare it against the money we will spend on hunting licenses and all the other costs over the life of the bow...or you could buy a Samick Sage as others suggest, be content with it, and never really understand what is possible by seeing things a little differently...you live in a free country and the choice is up to you

DDave

[Sharp Stick]

I think with the proper broad head, correct arrow spine, and well placed shot, a 40# bow is capable of taking any animal in North America. Maybe with the exception of a Grizzly Bear.  In that case, maybe a 50# or heavier.  I think heavy bows and extra heavy arrows are over rated.  A razor sharp broad head, placed in the right spot will be just fine every time.  That's my experience and 2 cents worth.