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Author Topic: Another Stu's calculator question.  (Read 344 times)

Offline TX FLY CASTER

  • Trad Bowhunter
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  • Posts: 113
Another Stu's calculator question.
« on: September 25, 2014, 10:29:00 PM »
Every time I build an arrow with the calculator I always have to make the arrow 10# weaker than the bow number to get good flight. I just built some 2018's ,the program said @ 29" w/200 grains would be perfect. I had to leave them 29.5" with 235 up front to get them to fly broadheads good. Does anyone else have this issue. I know about the form factor numbers , I also know that form plays a big role . My release is not that sloppy................lol

Offline dbd870

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  • Posts: 1086
Re: Another Stu's calculator question.
« Reply #1 on: September 26, 2014, 07:49:00 AM »
Yeah, according to it I should be using 2016's but I have received several comments at 3D shoots about how well my 1916's fly. (and they do, including broadheads)
SWA Spyder

  • Guest
Re: Another Stu's calculator question.
« Reply #2 on: September 26, 2014, 09:43:00 AM »
Once I got the PFF set for me, the numbers are always nearly dead on.

I have read a lot of folks info that say the calculator gives them setups that are too stiff though.

Bisch

Offline Bladepeek

  • Trad Bowhunter
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  • Posts: 3318
Re: Another Stu's calculator question.
« Reply #3 on: September 26, 2014, 11:13:00 AM »
I think that's the whole idea of the personal form factor. The basic calculator will put you in the ballpark, but once you get an arrow perfectly tuned to your bow and form, you use the PFF to get the bow and arrow dynamic poundage to match. Then, you can make any kind of substitution in shaft type, length, footing, point weight, etc and know what will shoot as well as the one you set up with initially.

At least it works well for me that way.
60" Bear Super K LH 40#@28
69" Matt Meacham LH 42@28
66" Swift Wing LH 35@28
54" Java Man Elk Heart LH 43@28
62"/58" RER LXR LH 44/40@28

Offline Caughtandhobble

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  • Posts: 1661
Re: Another Stu's calculator question.
« Reply #4 on: September 26, 2014, 12:45:00 PM »
Works near perfect for me... Just make sure that the inputs are correct. Good Luck!!!

Offline Wheels2

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  • Posts: 1040
Re: Another Stu's calculator question.
« Reply #5 on: September 26, 2014, 12:56:00 PM »
I found that for me, a slightly weaker spine shot best.  However, it is a real good place to start.  My biggest complaint is that the calculated arrow speeds are "optimistic".
The calculator projects arrow speed at 210 fps.  I get 189 fps.  Could be I have a bad release though, but doesn't really matter to me.  I just got bored and took the chrono along to the range.
I think exact arrow speed is not worrying about.
Super Curves.....
Covert Hunter Hex9h
Morrison Max 6 ILF
Mountain Muffler strings to keep them quiet
Shoot as much weight as you can with accuracy

Offline Bobaru

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  • Posts: 444
Re: Another Stu's calculator question.
« Reply #6 on: September 26, 2014, 03:23:00 PM »
I'm with Bladepeek.  Getting tuned the old fashion way is the most important part.  Then, I make Stu's calculator match.  Then, I can make all kinds of changes and find out very quickly from Stu's calculator whether they will work.

Most bows I have are very close with the calculator.

I bought a very nice bow that was way way off.  I anticipated using a 400 spined arrow with a 125 grain head and ended with a 500 spined arrow and 160 grain head. I think I was 22# off for some reason.  Crazy!

But, now that I have that bow set up with the calculator, I have been able to change my arrows easily.
Bob


 "A man has to control himself before he can control his bow." Jay Massey

Offline lilbobby

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Re: Another Stu's calculator question.
« Reply #7 on: September 26, 2014, 04:47:00 PM »
The calculator is dead on for me, on my last 5 bows.
Conny

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