keep trimming?

[DanielB89]

I have never tried tuning arrows with fletched arrows, so I decided to make that happen.  I fletched up some arrows and they were all hitting to the right(weak), so i trimmed a little of the arrow and it got closer to spot on.  Well It is hitting just a couple inches to the right and majority of times if I miss, it is to the right with these arrows.  

Would you trim just a hair more?  

It is literally 3" to the right, but It is almost every shot.

[Jim Wright]

If your arrows are flying well and are only slightly right (weak), you could build out the strike plate a bit and have them flying straight. Another easy "tweak" is to lower your brace height a bit if the bow will stay quiet and stable. If it's feasible, you can drop your point weight a bit. I would try shortening the arrows incrementally as a last resort.

[Florida bowhunter]

Yep you need to trim them a little until they hit center....

[The Whittler]

You can trim or just lower your brace hight a little until your dead on.

[DanielB89]

I am shooting a widow and don't really want to build out the shelf because of how small it is in the first place.  I am going to trim it a little.  I might could stand to lower my brace height a little, but i thought that would make them weaker?

i must be confused. .

[Jim Wright]

Daniel, I am suggesting that you "build out" the strike plate on the vertical part of your riser a bit by using a thicker piece of leather or by peeling the existing one off halfway (from the back of the bow side) and place a piece of toothpick or safety match under it vertically which will change your arrow flight slightly to the left. Lowering your brace height does the same thing, in my experience not as much as the thicker strike plate unless you can drop it a good bit. The Widows I have been around tended to be a bit hard to keep quiet so you may not have much room to work with there.

[**DONOTDELETE**]

My recommendation would be pad your strike plate out a bit, or cut your shafts down a bit. Or possible lighten your tip weight a bit.

 Every bow has a sweet spot in the brace height where it performs the best, and is the most quiet. I wouldn't advocate adjusting brace height for arrow tuning at all.... Kirk

[hvyhitter]

where do your broadheads hit compared to your field points.........

[DanielB89]

Originally posted by hvyhitter:
where do your broadheads hit compared to your field points.........

Funny you mentioned this...

field tips paper tune stiff.  Broadheads hit about 8 to right at 20 yards.  I let the broadheads dictate what I did.  I trimmed a little more of the arrow and of coarse they moved to the left some.  

I have never in my life had an arrow do what this one does..

Bare shafts(full length) flies perfect(literally flies like a dart).  I shoot a fletched full length arrow, it hits to the right.  I paper tuned a field tip and it shows stiff.  I shoot a broadhead on a fletched arrow it hits more right.  I trimmed the broadhead arrow and it moved to the left(as it should).  

I am stumped.

[Florida bowhunter]

I would continue to trim arrow a little bit at a time until broadheads hit center, after all that's what you hunt with.

[Diamond Paul]

Everything you just said indicates weak if you are a righty, except it got weaker with feathers, which it should not do, and the paper test showed stiff to begin with.  If you added feathers and it hit right, it might have been a bit stiff to begin with and you made that worse with feathers by creating additional contact.  You said paper tuning showed stiff, so maybe the full length bare shaft was an accident, or something happened you could not see and all your mistakes combined to put it in the middle, even though it was stiff.  Bare shafting is tricky unless you have nearly perfect form, every single shot.  You almost need a clicker.  Paper will show you what the arrow is doing right out of the bow.  If the arrows are actually stiff, they might be making contact and kicking, which might seem to be weak but is not.  If the arrow is actually weak, then dropping considerable point weight should make it show stiffer bare shaft.  If it actually makes it show weaker, you are probably getting a false reading from contact.  Try putting enough tip weight on to get a correct tear through paper (which you said was stiff, so more weight), then re-do the bare shaft test and see what you get.  That would at least give you some idea of what is not going on.

[SL]

What Florida said. Big wide broadheads will show you what is going on spine wise and nock height wise. I generally get close with bare shaft then go to some wide two blades to final tune. Good luck!

[jonsimoneau]

Double sided tape works great for building out the side plate.

[Piratkey]

Do you check the feather clearence ?

[DanielB89]

I have not checked feather clearance, but i will try something different with that.  

I have never seen anything like this with my arrows when tuning.  Literally NEVER.  I always just bare shaft, get them flying like darts and never have another problem with them.

[freedomhunter]

yes, after shooting hours today I watched the tuning video done by the guy from black widow again.  I could not get my new arrows to fly worth a crap.  Different weights and nothing would change but nock high and right.  Telling me stiff even with a 250 grain head on my 600 spine arrow.  

After watching that video he talks about the quill hitting the riser.  Some guy last year showed me something that was completely wrong and I had a feather that ran across the riser completely.  Even bare shaft with the quill still on it would screw up.  I adjusted the arrow on the string to where the quill would not rub the riser and wha la, good flight of a bare shaft at 15 yards.  No more fletched arrows fish tailing.  Shooting a 27 3/4" gold tip with 200 grain up front.  On a bear super kodiak 50# at 28" and my draw is 25 3/4".  Don't ask me why this works it just does.

[capt eddie]

I thought that I had read that some people suggest shooting with the cock feather in. Reasoning that the arrow moves away from the riser.

[Caughtandhobble]

Daniel, I always weigh my broadheads in order to compare to the weighed field points. They have to weigh the same if used as a tuning method. Just because the package says a weight does not mean that it is right.... Sounds like that may be your problem since your bare shaft arrows group with your field point arrows.

I would do some investigating before I started cutting shafts. There's a lot of things that you can do that can be undone and cuttings shafts is not one of them. You have to ask yourself what has changed, and a lot of the time you will answer your own question.

Good Luck Brother.  

[DanielB89]

Originally posted by Caughtandhobble:
Daniel, I always weigh my broadheads in order to compare to the weighed field points. They have to weigh the same if used as a tuning method. Just because the package says a weight does not mean that it is right.... Sounds like that may be your problem since your bare shaft arrows group with your field point arrows.

I would do some investigating before I started cutting shafts. There's a lot of things that you can do that can be undone and cuttings shafts is not one of them. You have to ask yourself what has changed, and a lot of the time you will answer your own question.

Good Luck Brother.      

I know that the field tips and the broaheads weigh different. the field tips are 175 and the broad heads are 190.  I didn't think that 15 grains would make that big of a difference and they didn't with my last set of arrows.

[DanielB89]

Originally posted by freedomhunter:
yes, after shooting hours today I watched the tuning video done by the guy from black widow again.  I could not get my new arrows to fly worth a crap.  Different weights and nothing would change but nock high and right.  Telling me stiff even with a 250 grain head on my 600 spine arrow.  

After watching that video he talks about the quill hitting the riser.  Some guy last year showed me something that was completely wrong and I had a feather that ran across the riser completely.  Even bare shaft with the quill still on it would screw up.  I adjusted the arrow on the string to where the quill would not rub the riser and wha la, good flight of a bare shaft at 15 yards.  No more fletched arrows fish tailing.  Shooting a 27 3/4" gold tip with 200 grain up front.  On a bear super kodiak 50# at 28" and my draw is 25 3/4".  Don't ask me why this works it just does.

LOL, i understand about the lack of reasoning.  I am trying something different with my feathers now.  I will go back to how they used to be and see if that changes anything.  I have noticed that 1 feathers has considerably too much wear for only be a few days old.  That has to have something to do with it.