Buying older bows

[Krex1010]

Question for the fellas that have bought older bows....looking to buy my first traditional bow. I've been talking to a guy on craigslist who is selling a bear grizzly, it marked as 42# and he says it was made in the 60's. The serial number seems to indicate it's a 1960's bow. What should I be looking at when determining if I should buy a bow that is 30,40,50 years old ? I'm not looking for a collectors item, I want an everyday shooter that I can practice and learn on.

[LongStick64]

If you find one in great shape , why not. I got lucky and found a 1964 Bear Grizzly, a few little nicks but overall in great shape, shoots as well as the day it left the factory.
In my opinion there are suberb deals with the older bows. More buyers are keying in on the new stuff because the resale price has dropped. Best advice is to get as much information from the buyer first, pictures help, a phone call even better.

[Dorado]

I'd look for cracks, places where the lamination is coming apart. Flex the box and listen for cracking or popping. Look for stress, nicks, bumps. I'm sure someone with more experience will chime in.
I have a 1958 Bear Polar, I got real lucky with it as I had to buy it without knowing what to look for. It's turned out to be a good shooter.

[centaur]

You might want to check for twisted limbs, too.

[LBR]

 I'm not looking for a collectors item, I want an everyday shooter that I can practice and learn on.  

I'd go with a new Samick Sage or Journey (depending on your draw length).

Reasons are:  it will have a warranty;  you can buy new limbs cheap and go up or down in draw weight if needed;  worst case scenario you can easily replace it;  it will be compatible with high performance string materials (the string that comes with it is pretty lousy), and it's cheap.  Replace the factory string with a good string and it's a good shooter.

[dbd870]

Get lots of pics and look for the issues noted above; I have a 71-72 Grizzly and a 73ish KMag. Like them both really well; much rather have an older Bear than a new Sammick (not that they aren't good bows). Just prefer to use the Bear's from the era when I shot Bear recurves in high school.

[Krex1010]

I know I said I don't want a collectors item, but I have a soft spot for bear bows, my dad always shot them, I shot them when I was younger. So nothing against Sammick bows but my nostalgic side wants a bear.  Also I'd really prefer a one piece bow. I know there are plenty of older bows out there still being shot everyday, I just want to know what to look for when buying an older bow.

[mike g]

Keep in mind bows are like people, Ya don't when they will expire.
    If their are no obvious defects, shoot it.

[LBR]

Yep--what Mike said.  Look for the obvious, but often defects aren't obvious.

Check the lams for any gaps or cracks--strung and unstrung.  Same with the riser.  Twisted limbs, cracked limb tips, tiller off, etc.

[Krex1010]

I'm picking the bow up in person and the owner said I'm welcome to shoot it. And the price is $120 so it's not a major risk.

[Bladepeek]

I just picked up an older Grizzly with a badly twisted limb, and someone stripped the decals off. I'm pretty confident I can straighten the limb out - cleared up quite a bit just from leaving it strung 2 days.

For $25 I didn't risk much.

[oldbohntr]

The s/n on a grizzly is not going to indicate the year.  I've been buying old bows and shooting them for decades, and I have no qualms about it.  But, I'd take a stringer with you and don't assume the seller can string it safely.  I've seen some scary attempts by guys who said they know what they're doing.  A twisted limb is the worst thing-assuming it is not delaminating or shows other serious abuse.  I always make a new string for every bow I take in. Grizzlies are good bows.   Enjoy it.

[Duncan]

Not all cracks are necessarily bad. I have an Alaskan 58 or 59 correct me if I'm wrong but I think mine was only made for 2 years with right and left hand shelves and a late 70's Grizzly and they both have fine longitudinal cracks in the glass and have always had them as long as I have owned them. I bought them that way and they still shoot just fine. I think you really can't go wrong with a Grizzly or a Kodiak Hunter that is in good condition. To me good condition can have some minor scratches or dings but screw holes especially in the glass bother me although they can be repaired. If you don't have to pay alot for it you can't go wrong. My Alaskan was bought for $15.00 and the Grizzly was $45.00 back in the day.

[Blackhawk]

A slight twist or those ugly stress lines in the limbs don't bother me that much...IF the price is right.  A slight twist can be corrected, but check those stress lines for depth.  

Check those other things already mentioned, string it, pull a few times slightly, and then full draw.

If all well, offer $100 and you will probably take it home.  If selling later, you will not lose money.

[Bill Turner]

I'd ask the seller how it has been stored and general info about the bows origin/history. He/she might have no idea but u can at least ask. Excess heat during storage(think TX attic) is a big concern. As recommended, take along a stringer and use it to string the bow. I've seen more than one listed on the auction site strung backwards. Also, take a good look at the string before stringing just to be on the safe side.  

[Krex1010]

The seller sent me some additional pics of the bow. The limbs look pretty straight, it looks like it may have some of those small long cracks running down the front of the limbs (like Duncan) mentioned. Seller says he still shoots it from time to time and has no issues with the bow being shot when I check it out. The one concern I have is he doesn't own a stringer and says he strings it without one. Is twisted limbs the only damage I should worry about from him doing that? Also does anyone know if Dicks sporting goods sells stringers? I'd like to bring one with me and that's the only place I can get to before I see the bow.

[mangonboat]

Looking at and buying old bows can be like going down a rabbit hole. If you search for completed listings on the 'bay auction site, you can get a good idea of what the going market price is . Lots of good bows on the classified s, here, too.  If you just want an everyday shooter, a Bear Grizzly is a good start if its in decent shape.( I shoot a 1970 Grizzly covered with flat camo paint 44 years ago..still shoots 'em as good as new, but its no collector).  For $120, a 65- 1990 Grizzly should be in VERY good shape the exception being a 1965 zebrawood, as those tend to go for about 33% more. If it was made between 65 and 69, the first digit of the serial number is the last digit of the year it was made, but that rule doesn't apply to any other era. If it says Bear, Archery Grayling Michigan on the limb decal, it was made in '77 or before. Gainsville, Florida is '78 or since. If you're not collecting, remember that all bows feel different in your hand and you want the one that feels good to you. Ben Pearsons feel different from Howatts feel different from Wings feel different from Bears feel different from Shakespeare, etc. Likewise, Bear and Ben Pearson, etc. made many different models, and a Bear Tigercat should shoot nearly the same as a Grizzly but typically cost 25% less these days, a Kodiak  or Super Kodiak 25-33% more than a comparable Grizzly and  Kodiak Hunter and Kodiak Magnum somewhere in between. You can find lots of good info for every vintage bow right here and on other forums. Or you could buy the one on craigslist and get to practicing.

[Krex1010]

Excellent info magnonboat, thanks for the reply. I'm heading to check the bow Friday morning, I'm itching to start shooting. Hopefully the bow looks good and I can get to know her over the weekend.

[jhk1]

Check for limb twist with the bow strung.  String it up, then look down the bow from one end to the other (string side up, riser down)-- the limb tips, limbs, and string should all be in alignment.  Then look down the bow the same way from the other end.

As Blackhawk said in his previous post, slight limb twist isn't a big problem.  It can be pretty easily corrected (just search for "correcting limb twist" or something like that-- it's been addressed many times on tradgang).  The bow should still be very shootable even if it has slight limb twist (assuming no other significant issues with the bow).

[damascusdave]

I have bought a few older bows and the only one in this picture that I shot before I bought is the 1976 Super Kodiak at the top...I am not sure that buying an older bow involves any more risk than buying a new one...we hear lots of stories about new bows with all sorts of issues that require warranty...none of these bows have any warranty left on them and none of them have required any

DDave