GT Heavy Hunters or Trads

[JCS]

I posted this in a previous thread I started but figured it would get more response in it own thread.  I ordered 50lb limbs and will be shooting 150gr Magnus stingers. I need new arrows and was wondering whether to get the Trad blems or Byron Ferguson Heavy Hunter blems. The Magnus are brand new so when they wear out I'll be getting heavier broadheads. I was thinking about getting 100gr inserts to make it 250 up front, but wanted your opinions on more weight up front. Which spine should I get? I'll eventually want to shoot even heavier up front and would like to continue using the same arrows if they are still in good condition at that time. Thanks!

[olddogrib]

I've done this experiment and personally I'd get a 1/2 dozen trad blems in the spine that you'll need to tune and experiment. Going into this with a closed mind by "tying your hands" with a pre-determined point weight can be very frustrating. I was determined to go full length and increase spine at the same time to get a much heavier hunting arrow.  The GTHH will deliver in the weight dept., but it's going to be like shooting rebar if you're not familiar with them.  Even if you're not a true "gapper" most folks are very aware of that dimension in their peripheral vision and at 20 yds. I went from a gap of nearly 3 ft to mere inches.  That's not necessarily a bad thing at hunting ranges and can be a deadly formula, but it can take awhile to get over the "shock and awe" of how much slower that heavy arrow is going to be and how quickly it'll drop.  It will still have plenty of velocity to blow through a deer like a hot knife through butter if you don't shoot 3 ft. under it, lol!

[JCS]

Alright, thanks.  Which GT trads though? 5575 or 7595?

[JARHEAD1371]

That depends on your bow. If it's cut to center, you will need a lighter spine than if it's cut past center. For example, I shoot an ACS 3 piece longbow that's 50# at my draw. I shoot 340 spine arrows, 145 gr point, insert, and 50 gr weight. The shafts are cut to 29.25" and fly perfectly bare shafted. Those arrows would be much too stiff for a bow that's cut to center.

What's your goal for the total arrow weight? Mine are right around 500 gr, which I feel is a good point to be at for the hunting I do.

[JCS]

I shoot a Samick Sage 50lb @28" but draw to 30".  So, 55 or so. Sage's are cut 3/16" past center I believe. My arrows will be full length. The 5575's with my heads, inserts, feathers, nock, etc. should be around 560gr.

[olddogrib]

My guess would be 55/75, but folks will tell you that it's not always that simple.  Non typical form will trump the best spine charts in the world all day long! Time may not permit, but a 3 arrow test kit would go a long ways in narrowing down spine choices.  Even then, a standard 50 grain insert and 150 head may be right where you need on a full length shaft.  My point being, if you jump the gun and epoxy the heavy inserts in your shafts you find you can't shoot anything near 150 without cutting.  Tuning is a very individual thing.  Nobody can do it for you and your "mileage will vary".  People have good luck evaluating the various insert weight options with saran wrap in carbons, hot melt in aluminum (so they can be removed). The best advice is go slow, don't epoxy anything until you're sure and cut as a last resort.  When you've screwed up a few thousand $$ of arrow shafts, you'll understand, lol!

[damascusdave]

No need to screw up more that a few hundred dollars worth of arrow shafts...it gets easier the more you do it...or you can be like me and hang out with an arrow dealer....olddogrib is right on though...sounds like you may be coming from shooting a compound...things are kind of different when it comes to tuning a recurve or a longbow...I have a bow that I was sure would tune with 400 spine arrows and it needs 340 spine...I have a bow that I was sure would tune with 340 spine and it absolutely loves the 400 spine

DDave

[JCS]

I didn't think it would be that hard.  Never owned a compound.  Emailed Big Jim's and they said 5575 with 250 up front should work but said that was a guess. I had a 35lb with 1535's with 150 broadheads on them and they shoot fine. Didnt' worry about tuning and what not and it worked out.  Guess I got lucky.

[Flying Dutchman]

Invest in a testkit with different spines and keep it for future bows! It really pays back! I would go for the traditionals, because I think the Byron Ferguson's are really over- prized!

[Bobaru]

I have a 50# Samick Journey and draw about 29.5".  I'm shooting GT 7595/300 Traditional with 150 gr heads and 40 grains of weight added to the insert.  

Spent a lot of time tuning in order to come up with that arrow/broadhead/weight combo, bare shaft tuned.  They fly true; sticks 'em plenty good!  

Some would prefer the 300 spined arrow weakened a little more than mine are by adding still more point weight.  But, still, this arrow bare shafted fine with me.

I have tried 400 spined arrows.  But, in order to get them to bare shaft correctly, I needed to keep the point weight down.  That didn't work because then my arrows weren't heavy enough.

By the way, the Samick Journey riser is the same as the Samick Sage riser.

Hope this helps & good luck.

[STICKBENDER98]

I shoot 3555's with 125 grain wensel woodsman on 100 grain steel insert cut to 29" bop out of my widow that is 51#s @ 28, they fly great.

[BigJim]

JCS, it will always be a guess. NO one here can tell you exactly what you need. You will have to figure that out. I will tell you that the 7595
's are going to be too stiff most everytime for anyone under 62#s and long draw.

I am shooting 7595's out of a 65lb @ 32" cut 1/8" past center longbow. The arrows are full length and I have a regular insert and a 300g point. I draw between 31.5" and almost 32". If I short draw these slightly, they won't fly. My set up is achieving over 200fps.

Guys who are getting decent flight out of the 7595 in lighter or shorter set ups have something else going on such as false readings.

Go with the 5575's or the 3555 heavy hunter blems(HH's are going to shoot much stiffer than the regular wood grain). If the shafts end up being on the weak side, you can always build out the side  plate a little. They are the spine you will need, you will just have to test to determine length and point weight.
BigJim

[Mississippi bow hunter]

I will echo what everyone else has told you. It's just hard to say 100% what you should purchase. You really need to try several different spine's. The Byron Ferguson HH shaft is a great shaft. They are very tough.

[JCS]

Thanks a lot, guys!