It will without a doubt be the 1535's but you have had them cut and they may already be a little stiff.
A big problem with tuning, if you aren't already in the ball park with your arrow selection, is false readings.
Here are some of the questions I would ask when helping people determine where to start:
Bow type and center cut :
I know that it is a Sage and is either cut 3/16" or 1/8" past center (I don't know for sure).
Draw length and how did you determine this:
you say it is roughly 27"s. Was this figured while someone watched you shoot or a static measurement while you tried to replicate what you normally do? (my experience is that mens draw length is seldom what they think it is..hmmm
)
Draw weight at your length:
most can only guess at this and I would guess yours to be around 42lbs With what info you gave.
Do you shoot split finger or three under:
This can be very important as if your arrow nock fits the string properly, you will experience major tuning issues with out having a nock of sorts below as well as above the arrow while shooting three under...not so much so with split.
What is your nock height:
Each bow and shooting style will depict your need for proper nock height as this is basically tillering the bow for your style and three under will always have a higher nock requirement and average about 5/8"-3/4" depending....where as split is usually around 1/2" (measured from height of shelf to underside of nock point)
There are many other factors as well but mostly small ones and this is before you get to the nitty gritty of shaft length and point weight...brace is less important as long as you are in range.
If your bow is making lots of noise or you are experiencing undue shelf wear, these are warnings.
Think about this, if you are having to use a set up that is significantly out of the norm: what is really going on here? I know your mother thinks your special, but your bow does not. Chances are you are missing something.
You will now begin to hear stories on how others are making odd things work and you should try them. this can get expensive. If you need new test arrows, we sell them individually...never could understand why one would have to buy three different spines when we know at least one of those is going to be absolutely worthless for anything but tomato stakes.
Good luck,
BigJim... my credentials: owner of traditional archery business helping people with their set up's for seven years (many years personal experience previous). I specialize in carbon arrows and sold nearly 4000 dz last year and likely to exceed 5500 dz this year...no not a typo. We also sell quite a few wood arrows/shafts too. I will also tell you that I don't have all the answers and this is a trial and error thing as there is too much that is not tangible.
Topic: arrows hitting tail right (Read 643 times)
