need arrrow dipping advice

[Tajue17]

I ordered two doz shafts from wapiti and would like to just seal these up good with no cresting and shoot them with the plain look, I want the shafts to have a nice quality seal look to them as if someone like snag did it (plug for snag) maybe even ad a bit of weight.  

asking you folks,,   right now I have nothing to do this and will have to buy everything, can you guys recommend the best stuff to buy for this for someone on a budget,, don't need a pro setup or crester right now I just want to do these two doz and see how it goes,, I already have fletchers and choppers..

also, don't forget to tell me what finish to buy and what fletching glue will work with it I usually used duco on woods and fletch tite on carbons or aluminums,,, thanks for any info, T

[Gordon Jabben]

Tajue, I think you can keep it simple and have good results.  Just fill a pvc tube with unthinned polyurethane and dip the shaft halfway and let hang to drip and dry.  When dry, dip the other half.  When done, pour the poly back in the can.  Use duco for the feathers.

[shreffler]

x2 on PVC. You can buy a dip tube from somewhere and get all the fixings but that can be costly and isn't super necessary.

Get some pantyhose from Walmart and stretch them over the top of the PVC, poke a small hole in them for the arrow to go through. When you pull the arrow back out of the dip tube that'll help keep the layers thin. Hang them to dry, dip as many times as you'd like. You could even weigh them after each dip to get the desired weight.

Any polyurethane from Wal-mart will do the trick if you're not trying to be super fancy. You can even get one with some color to it to help spruce them up a bit. I just use fletch-tite and it sticks fine to the woodies. Never have used anything else.

Alex

[Slickhead]

Heres one  idea from
 

I made a this variation with a PVC reducer. A plastic coffee can lid fits perfect to keep covered.

 

I like the panty hose idea for getting the excess off.
Water based poly provides a great finish but IMO is less durable.
Magic markers and paint pens and you'll have fancy wood arrows to make anyone jealous.

[Tajue17]

thank you for the info I'm a plumber so I have lots of PVC for a dip tube..  thanks for the posts, T

[Bud B.]

I use this setup...made from watching this video

   

I use Minwax oil based poly thinned 50/50 with Mineral Spirits. I use gloss. It makes for a durable target burn resistant finish. I dip at least three times for each shaft.

Dip once and let dry

0000 Steel wool rub down and clean off


dip again and let dry


0000 steel wool rubdown and clean off

dip again and you'll get a glossy hard finish that'll withstand dirt, water, target burn, and many other ailments. If you don't want a glossy finish, rub it down again with 0000 steel wool and wipe clean.

[old bucky]

Bud B.do you use the gasket, or dip without the gasket.

Thanks Sam

[bigbadjon]

If you want the best for a plain finish then Profin is the best and is already at dipping consistency and is duco compatible.  I still prefer Fletch Lac myself... but you can't use pvc as your dip tube, it needs Platinum for fletching, and is spendier than other choices. I will add I've tried lots of readily available finishes and this is a component I would not try to save money on. The best Minwax stuff is the oil based poly recommended above but it isn't nearly as good as either Profin or Fletch Lac.

[MO Bow]

x1000 on the ProFin.  It's a little pricey...especially if you don't have a store around that carries it.

I use it with a PVC dip tube that I made.  I hang my shafts using those black clips that hold a bunch of paper together.  Clip the end of the shaft so I have something to hang onto when I dip and then hook that on push pins on my work bench.

The excess drips off into a long, short rectangular flower box.  

I stain, crest, dip, dry, sand with 0000 steel wool, dip, dry, sand, dip, dry.

I've used other products and nothing protects against target burn like ProFin does.  Never had an issue with cracking, flaking or chipping.  It won't preven your arrow from breaking if you shoot a flat piece of steel, though...

[hogless]

I use wipe on poly I get at home depot it has a 2 too 3 hour dry time with fine steel wool in-between coats I do three coats if you want to stain the shaft  first be shur  the stain is dry good be for applying the poly I use Saunders archery glue

[Bud B.]

No gasket

[WESTBROOK]

I do like Bud B said.

Makes a great durable finish.

[LostNation_Larry]

What exactly is ProFin?

[jonsimoneau]

Daly's Pro-Finn always gives me the best results. Dries hard and clear. It does not need to be thinned and it always goes on without drips or bubbles.  Also it does not wear off when removing the arrows from targets.  Just some Pro-fin and a cheap dipper.

[jonsimoneau]

This is the stuff you want.

[Steve56]

I'm with hogless! I wipe on several coats of a water-based polyurethane using steel wool between coats (lightly). I found the Loctite Control Gel Super Glue worked well for fletching. If you're gonna stain, then that comes first.

Does Duco stick to spar varnish? I have a gallon of it with no where to use it, but I do have a bunch of arrow shafts.

[Bud B.]

Try a test run. I have heard Duco changed formula and it does not stick well with oil based finished now.

Most of my Duco tubes are older. I need to find out for sure also. Around here Family Dollar sells it for $1 a tube.

[Tajue17]

I ended up getting the water based poly for my first attempt, wapiti is holding my shafts 2 doz of the heaviest they have which I'm paying for when they open today,  will make up the dip tubes....  going to check a few 2nd hand stores for anything that I can cut up and make into a shaft stand and if not I'll build from scratch.

[Green]

Re Duco - I have had issues with Duco and oil based poly lately.  I'm not sure if I'm the only one or not, or if the formula was changed, but I have had "failure to bond" issues with Duco, Nirk, and Mercury nocks.  I now use gel superglue for the nocks.....gives you a bit of work time to align the nock and spin it true before setting it aside to cure.  

In the interest of accuracy I had thinned my poly awhile back with one of those "green" paint thinners as opposed to the regular stuff as the local hardware was out.  Even though the total addition of this stuff was only in the 5% range....I can't be sure if this junk is to blame for the failures or not.

I'd be interested to find out if anyone else has had issues with Duco over oil based poly.