GT 1535 vs 3555 --- More Help Please!!!

[Archer Dave]

Hey guys I started to post this in my other thread about my new grizzly, but thought that I should probably split it away into it own thread if that is kosher.

I would like to buy some new arrows for my new 45# Bear Grizzly. I have been shooting the last three remaining GT XT Hunter 3555's I have. It seems to shoot pretty well, but I have been reading at lot about about guys using the 1535 GT for 45-50# recurves.

Seems to be some debate about which is better.

One thing I did notice, again I did not bare shaft test these 3555 XT Hunters, is that if I shoot very close that the knock is leaning a bit to the right. This makes me wonder if I bare shaft tested these if they would be much further to the right thus showing they are over spined.

It would be good to test a few 1535's and 3555's bare shafted to see what works best, but I do not have much money to spend on two sets of arrows with one set not getting used.

I also wonder if I need to up my arrow weight as the full length GT 3555 XT Hunters with 125 FP comes out to 380.5gr on my reloading scale.

However I do not think a heavier point would work well since my balance point is 10-3/8" from the insert with the 125 FP on. I do not know what percent FOC that is but it seems front heavy to me and the 125 is not all that heavy of a point.

Any thoughts there? What shaft do you guys think would be best.

Thanks,
Dave

[Archer Dave]

Double post. Oops

[the rifleman]

Hi Dave.  I think you will find that you can add much more point weight to those 3555 s making them perform weaker.  At 380 you are on the light end for gpp.  I would strip feathers from one and bareshaft w 200 gr field point and see where you are before ordering new arrows.  What is your actual draw length?

[Archer Dave]

Thanks. My draw length is 28-5/8".

Would the 200 gr FP not make for a really front heavy arrow?

I thought about stripping the fletching from one of these, but I don't have a fletching jig right now and then would only have two arrows to shoot right now.

Thanks
Dave

[motorhead7963]

if you are getting good flight then why would you question what you've got?
with that said go with the 35/55s you will be open for more  arrow combo possibilities. I think a lot of people don't understand how GT spines there arrows, with a 35/55 arrow spine if you keep it say full length it will better suit a lighter bow close to 35lbs at AMO draw length standards as you shorten it the spine will start to favor a heavier bow say up to 55lbs with the same tip weight as the lighter bow. For me its simple I wish GT hadn't caved and change there spine classification.

[njloco]

I thought the #'s were related to the draw weights for compound bows ?

I only draw 26 1/2", while I can use either 1535's or 3555's, I choose to use the 1535's. I have been able to load them up front with 360 grains with three 4" feathers @ 29" long. I find that they don't get effected by a cross wind nearly as much as with longer feathers.

[Jerry Jeffer]

3555 and go heavier up front. m2c

[motorhead7963]

GTs spine rating is broken down like this, 15/35s 15lb bows to 35lb bows, 35/55s 35lb bows to 55lb bows 55/75s 55lb bows to 75lb bows etc. etc.

[the rifleman]

Dave. Rather than strip fletch you could try wetting the fletching down on one arrow and see what happens.  When I switched from compound years ago I thought 200 grs up front was a lot.  Higher foc seems much more prevalent w trad bows.  W your draw length I think the 3555s will work for you.  I shoot a 50 pound longbow and the 1535s give me a good tune full length-- but I only draw 25 inches, my bow is not cut as close to center as yours, and I shot 200 grs up front-- all factors that impact tuning.

[motorhead7963]

njloco: with your draw length as short as it is you can get away with the setup you have, if it works for you stick with it. GTs will show a little stiffer than say a wood arrow but I like that and tune accordingly they are also inherently tougher and I like that as well.

[Matty]

I use the 1535 for 41-48# bows. The seem to fly better. That's with 150 gr up front. I use weed wacker line covered with masking tape to give them more weight. The masking tape keeps them quiet.

[Archer Dave]

Hey guys. This is one post on this forum that started to make me think maybe the 1535's would be better.

 

Flying Dutchman (Member # 22361) on 03-12-2012 08:58 AM:
 
After reading some topics about the misleading spinevalues of carbon arrows and some people don't know how to deal with it, I think it's about time to open a topic about this.

A nice subject for my 1000-th post! [saywhat]

Lots of people seem to think that a shaft saying 15-35 is meant for bows within the range of 15 to 35 lbs. This is not true!
The 15-35 comes out of the compound world and has nothing to do with our traditional bows!

Lets take a look at the most common values: 15-35, 35-55, 55-75, and 75-95. More important here is the deflection. This means how much the shaft flexes with a weight of exactly 2 lbs on it, supported on both ends at 26".
If you want to converse these values to more traditional spinevalues, you will have to do some maths. First we look for the deflection value (which is mostly printed on the shaft and is in 1/1000 of an inch) For example 0.600 means that the shaft flexes 0.6 inch when putting a weight on it from 2 lbs supported at both ends at a lenght of 26 inches. This is the same method as with wood, only with wood it is measured at 28 inches. Then we devide the deflection value by 26 and multiply it with 1,2115 which is the factor for carbon.

This should give you the following table:

15-35 or 0.600” becomes: 26/0,6 x 1,2115 = 52,5 lbs
35-55 or 0.500” becomes: 26/0,5 x 1,2115 = 63 lbs
55-75 or 0.400” becomes: 26/0,4 x 1,2115 = 78 lbs
75-95 or 0.300” becomes: 26/0,3 x 1,2115 = 105 lbs

On these calculated lbs values all normal archery laws are applicable: shortening the shaft means a stiffer spine, higher point-weight means a weaker spine.

So for my 45 lbs bow I use a 1535 shaft. On a full lenght of 30,5" and with a 85 grains fieldpoint and standard insert it flies great. Bareshafting tells the same. My woodies tell the same: I use on the same bow 53 +/- 1 lbs Sitka shafts.. That's pretty close to the 52,5 lbs from a 15-35 carbon shaft!

YMMV, so if you have other ideas, theories or whatever, don't hold back. Afterall we are here to learn and share! I am sure there are some people here who do know a whole lot more about arrows than I do.

[motorhead7963]

Archer Dave if you want to get into that much math just to shoot your bow GO FOR IT. I shoot mostly 60lb bows with approx. 225+ up front on all my bows. I may do it backwards but it works for me. I find and like 100grn brass inserts and a 125 to 150 grn point/broadheads glue them in and tune the arrow from there, the other thing I like about the GTs is the consistency I get. you can drive your self nuts with calculations. It's archery not science. I just noticed on Flying Dutchmans quote he is shooting 85 grn points. Which if you ask around you will probably find almost nobody shoots that light of a point by its self especially in trad archery.

[Bladepeek]

Nearly all of my bows range from 43# to 47#, drawn 28". either 1535s or 3555s work great for me. The 1535s are cut just a bit shorter and carry 125 - 145 gr points with a standard insert. The 3555s are cut 30.5" with 186 gr up front (either 50 gr added wieghts and 125 gr point, or 175 gr points with standard inserts).

I agree the 3555s are probably more versatile and tune well with only minor changes in length. With a 28.5" draw, I'd say the 3555s are the way to go for all but the longest shots at 3D. If you want for hog arrows, you can really load them up.

[Archer Dave]

Alright guys. I appreciate the input. I think I will go with the GT Trad 3555's That will give me a little more weight and probably work well for me.

I want to be able to use these for target, stumpin' and hunting, so it seems the 3555's would be good for this.

Thanks,
Dave

Originally posted by Jerry Jeffer:
3555 and go heavier up front. m2c

Get them tuned with whatever weight is necessary.

Bisch

[njloco]

Archery Dave, thanks for going through the trouble of educating us, it's pretty much what I thought.

I for one will try that equation out.

[the rifleman]

Dave,  I reread the posts and maybe missed it (if so I apologize), but I did not see anywhere if you planned to deer hunt with the bow---guess I assumed you were.  One other thing I could suggest would be to put a broadhead on one of your 3555s and see how it flies---start close and move back looking to see if it groups with you field points.  Use the same weight broadhead as your field tips---if you go heavier or lighter you may need to factor that into the equation as an indicator of what increase/decrease of weight up front is doing to your set up.

[Stump73]

Originally posted by Bisch:
 

Originally posted by Jerry Jeffer:
3555 and go heavier up front. m2c

Get them tuned with whatever weight is necessary.

Bisch [/b]

X2 higher foc doesn't hurt at all.

[Bldtrailer]

I have tuned  a Bear Paw's classic 1pc 45@28 60in.( my draw 27) with gold tip 1535 trads 281/2 inch supplied insert(11grns) and 225 fld tips (bare shaft tuning great!)one inch footing of 2117(12grns front, and 1/4 inch 2117 nock end 3 grns)3 41/2 feather fletch, 12 strand D10 string FF wool puffs