Paper tune vs bareshaft

[Krex1010]

I understand the process of each but I'm not sure if each type of tuning really gives different info? Is there a certain time and place for each? Or do you folks who have been at this for a while do both? Or are they just 2 different ways to skin the same cat?

[Roy from Pa]

In my opinion, tuning with about 3 bare shafts and 3 fletched shafts is the best method.

[McDave]

My observation, purely from reading posts here over the years, is that the majority of our members use non-testing methods to choose arrows for their bows, such as spine calculators, recommendations of friends and vendors, and just watching the arrow flight.  A smaller, but still significant group, uses bare shaft testing.  A still smaller group uses paper testing.

I personally use bare shaft testing with one bare shaft, as I learned it from Ken Beck of Black Widow Bows. I understand it and it has worked well for me for many bow/arrow combinations over many years.  It does require a certain consistency of form to get consistent results.  I don't use EFOC weighted arrows, but from reports I have read on here, I get the idea that bare shaft testing might not work as well with EFOC as with a more normally balanced arrow.

[MnFn]

I have used both

I am a paper tuning guy. I know how to do it and am confident in my results. Like McDave said above, you have to have a pretty consistent release for paper tuning to work well, but i would think that would be the same for any form of tuning, as improper form will yield varying results.

Bisch

[old_goat2]

I haven't paper tuned since the wheels fell off my bow. I used it heavily then because the arrow was too damn fast to see what it was doing with my naked eye. Now I can see the arrow flight and I bare shaft to start and then I go to the 3d range where I know that a couple of the lanes where I shoot down into a gulley that afford me a better view of my arrow flight for some reason, it's either the lighting or the shooting into a back ground, probably a mixture of both. All this gets me close and then ultimately I shoot with broadheads on too confirm.

[AkDan]

typically I start bare shaft....its quick instant results.

I don't have a paper tester at the house, but when I'm at the range and question, instead of ripping feathers off its quick and easy to run through paper.  Paper basically gives you the same reading bare shafting is going to give you, without having to guess if your feathers have or have not corrected (for those of us who cant see those minute wobbles anyways which would be me lol).   The smaller adjustments like say a string stretched or a nock point move just a skosh.

I like bare shaft planning but generally don't do it until I know I'm close.  

One thing about tuning is there is no such thing as going over board...but in the end tuned is tuned.  The difference is things change for some of us anyways, bow torque draw length, anchor points etc.  

Tuning also led me to finding a crack in the riser on a bow that otherwise was a laser guided missle at the range.  I was stumped for awhile.  The crack was fixed, the bow shot great again, until the crack reopened.  I gave up on that bow not knowing when it would blow or for that matter what it changed.

Coming to final tune is a combination of tuning gear but more importantly tuning yourself.  I generally find its not my setup when something's arry.  Its usually me being a knob behind the string LOL!

[Michael Arnette]

I am a bare shafter...it just works well and is easy for me. I want to see what the arrow is doing down range.

[Bowwild]

I use calculators to work up what should work.

Then I prove it and fine tune by paper tuning. I check the final results with broad heads and field points at 20 yards.

I've used this process for about 40 years. I should have been doing this the first 5 years but I didn't know better. I blamed poor arrow flight in those newbie days on broadhead design.

[Stump73]

I like to use  fletched shaft with a broadhead and shoot it with a fletched shaft with just like the bareshaft method but wuth broadhead. That way I know if my hunting arrows are tuned im good to go.

[Stump73]

Also a warning dont use a shaft with a broadhead without fletching.  You never know where it will go.
Another thing to save your fletching is toshoot the shaft with the broadhead on it first that way your not cutting your fletching off of your other.

[njloco]

Paper tune.

[Wheels2]

I shoot bare shafts indoors under the lights or on a bright day and then watch the arrow flight.  I start at 10 yards and then move to 20 yards. You will get varied results depending upon your grip, heel pressure, release, etc, so run it several times and even a couple of different days.
Remember that if you cant your bow, the angle of the cant tells you about spine and nock position in relation to the bow as if it was being shot perfectly vertical.

[Scott Barr]

I start with a bare shaft through paper at 10 yards for starters.  Once close I paper test again with fletching as the added weight on the rear will stiffen the spine.

[AkDan]

Scott, why use paper bare shafting?  I've never seen anything other than a pillow target move enough to give you a false reading.  

I have used burlap stuffed with used shrink wrap in a closet and was able to tune bows just fine, but you had to take in considering that 'pillow' will/can move when suspended   Blocks are much nicer! I end up setting the 'pillow' on rubber maids in the end.   If the bags shot out enough your arrow moves around, re stuff it.  pretty simple fix.  

I hear folks talk about this movement giving you a false reading, but so far have yet to see it on any form of stationary target from foam to excelsior.