Writing on Arrows

[Bigmagic]

Do any of you know where I can get somebody that can write very nicely on arrows before I finish them? There are a few things I would like to put on them but I can't write good enough for something like that.

[Orion]

Check with your local voc ed school, or perhaps high school art department to see if either offers a calligraphy class.  If so, any of a number of the students should be able to do it for you.

[Mike Vines]

A good friend showed me how to do this to arrows...

 

Where in Michigan are you from?  Might be able to show you the "Ancient Vinese Secret".

[americanhunter7]

That's something I wanna learn how to do Mike! That's awesome!

[Bigmagic]

I'm in Jackson Mike. Did I see you at the banquet on February 21st? I don't remember there was a full house.

[Bladepeek]

Mike, looks like you caught the attention of several of us with that arrow marking. Are you going to be at the Tomahawk club shoot Mar 22nd? I'd like to talk to you about it too.

Ron

[**DONOTDELETE**]

Check out these guys.... this takes all the fight out of it.

http://www.onestringer.com/

[Mike Vines]

Originally posted by Bladepeek:
Mike, looks like you caught the attention of several of us with that arrow marking. Are you going to be at the Tomahawk club shoot Mar 22nd? I'd like to talk to you about it too.

Ron

As much as I love going to that shoot, I will be in Iowa at that time.

If you haven't been to one of The Tomahawk shoots, you will enjoy it.

[Grey Taylor]

Wraps are ok for aluminum or carbon arrows. But a beautiful wood arrow that has some real work, skill, and time in its making deserves more than just a plastic pair of pants.
Hand written calligraphy would be really nice but not everyone is going to have that at their disposal. The method that Mike is using offers a lot more flexibility to the arrow builder.

Guy

[pockets]

You have spurred me into experimentation. Long ago I used a simple transfer method to duplicate model aircraft and steam boat parts...never thought about trying it on arrow shafting. It worked well on flat balsa, birch, basswood, & mahogany at least.

1. Type your message using photoshop or such.
2. Choose whatever font and size suits the shaft.
3. Then mirror the text (reverse it entirely).
4. Print that out with a laser printer.
5. Lay the reverse printed text on the wood. Make sure it is tight against the wood.
6. Lightly brush acetone on the back of the paper.
This softens the printing, causing it to transfer to the wood.
7. LIGHTLY spray a couple coats of clear to protect the text. Experiment with this a bit, but a couple coats usually fixed it in place.

I just printed out a test sheet using the OP's banquet text. If I get a chance tonight, I'll try a transfer.

[Bladepeek]

pockets, you specified a laser printer. Will an ink jet printer work as well, or has to be a laser printer?

[Matty]

Originally posted by pockets:
You have spurred me into experimentation. Long ago I used a simple transfer method to duplicate model aircraft and steam boat parts...never thought about trying it on arrow shafting. It worked well on flat balsa, birch, basswood, & mahogany at least.

1. Type your message using photoshop or such.
2. Choose whatever font and size suits the shaft.
3. Then mirror the text (reverse it entirely).
4. Print that out with a laser printer.
5. Lay the reverse printed text on the wood. Make sure it is tight against the wood.
6. Lightly brush acetone on the back of the paper.
This softens the printing, causing it to transfer to the wood.
7. LIGHTLY spray a couple coats of clear to protect the text. Experiment with this a bit, but a couple coats usually fixed it in place.

I just printed out a test sheet using the OP's banquet text. If I get a chance tonight, I'll try a transfer.

Second this.....
you can buy (I believe it's called water transfer paper) on the big auction sites or Am@$0n the mentioned above application is the way to go. Very simple.

[WESTBROOK]

Whatever text you want on the arrow can be printed on clear decal stock...then applied to the arrow with a lttle WB clear over it for protection.

[WESTBROOK]

Mike, Ken put a how-to on that in the MLA mag a couple years ago.

[Mike Vines]

Same stuff all of us used as kids to put on put on our model cars (water slide decals).  Print it out on the decal paper, cut to size, clear coat then apply.  Dip over to complete the job.

[Mike Vines]

Originally posted by WESTBROOK:
Mike, Ken put a how-to on that in the MLA mag a couple years ago.

The BEST arrow maker that exists is Ken.  He is the one who taught me what I know about making arrows.

[pockets]

Originally posted by Bladepeek:
pockets, you specified a laser printer. Will an ink jet printer work as well, or has to be a laser printer?

I have only used this particular method with laser printers, I have never tried it with an inkjet. Although I have used inkjets a lot to  print out cardstock models, lightly clearcoating them (lightly) to seal against moisture...so I suppose injets will work also. I'm just not sure how well they work with the acetone transfer.
Then again, I've never tried it on arrow shafts anyway....so we shall see.

I've done many decals (vintage slot cars are a hobby and side business) using both commercial hobby sheets for inkjets and thermal transfer printer types...but decals can leave a raised appearance no matter how close I trim them. YMMV.    

[pockets]

My apologies gentlemen, it was not acetone I used in this process, it was butyrate dope thinner. I had none of that at home, so I could not test if this process works on shafting.

[Jon Stewart]

Another arrow maker that would land in the top 5 in Michigan is Mark Detmer.  He wrote an article/how to on how he makes arrows and puts lettering on them.  

I made a copy and would be glad to mail a copy of it to you if you want.  Just PM me your mailng address.

[snag]

If you have to do a lot of this the right decal is the way to go for consistency. The ones I offer you can't feel them when you run your finger over them without a top sealer. Then when you do put a sealer over them they are perfect.