Author Topic: Let's see your bone points?! (Read 499 times)

Ethan Grotheer · « **on:** March 11, 2015, 01:59:00 PM »

Hey guys, I just made my first couple (elk)bone point!. I'll post pics in a bit, but I'm hoping to stick a Turk this spring with one and my Trilam. But I wanted to see what all you guys have made or hunted with. Let's see some killer heads!

Ethan Grotheer · « **Reply #1 on:** March 11, 2015, 04:35:00 PM »

ARriverdog · « **Reply #2 on:** March 11, 2015, 04:42:00 PM »

really nice looking work!!
JW

Crittergetter · « **Reply #3 on:** March 11, 2015, 07:37:00 PM »

Very interesting, anyone take big game with bone points? Good lookin points Ethan!

Cyclic-Rivers · « **Reply #4 on:** March 11, 2015, 09:45:00 PM »

Neat looking points,

I am only asking because I dont know... Are they as effective as stone or steel in their cutting ability?

Stump73 · « **Reply #5 on:** March 11, 2015, 10:32:00 PM »

Those are very nice.

Ethan Grotheer · « **Reply #6 on:** March 12, 2015, 12:29:00 AM »

I don't know personally. I remember reading that Doug Campbell killed a deer with one very effectively.. The struggle is weight. My heaviest weighed 74 grs. Which with sinew and globs of glue perhaps I'll hit 100 grs.

Zbone · « **Reply #7 on:** March 12, 2015, 10:26:00 AM »

Always been curious, how to knap bone?

Ethan Grotheer · « **Reply #8 on:** March 12, 2015, 11:43:00 AM »

Well,.. I didn't necessarily go the primitive route in construction. I used a band saw and a sander to form the heads.. Then a small round file for the serrations.

Pat B · « **Reply #9 on:** March 12, 2015, 12:00:00 PM »

A few guys on TradGang(Doug Campbell for one)have taken deer with bone points.
Dead is dead so I guess they are effective.

Sky-Dogg · « **Reply #10 on:** March 12, 2015, 12:25:00 PM »

You don't actually knap bone. Knapping flint, stone, and glass works because of the geometric construction of these materials. Percussion and pressure knapping shape conchoidal fracturing materials through a process of lithic reduction. You are essentially removing a geometric portion (flake) of the material by knocking or pushing it off by applying stress at the proper angle. Bone is not a conchoidal fracturing material. It is worked by primitive or modern means which essentially employ cutting and abrasive means to shape and sharpen the bone. Primitive means utilize stones and rocks for cutting and abrading. Modern means utilize saws and manual or power abrasive wheels, belts, files, and bits.

Brian

Sockrsblur · « **Reply #11 on:** March 12, 2015, 01:28:00 PM »

Wild rose shaft, pine pitch glue, sinew, previous years 8pt leg bone... I learned a lot last year making them.

Sockrsblur · « **Reply #12 on:** March 12, 2015, 01:36:00 PM »

Sockrsblur · « **Reply #13 on:** March 12, 2015, 01:44:00 PM »

Experimented with field points...

Sinew wrapped them after shaping to add durability

Tried dying some...

Pat B · « **Reply #14 on:** March 12, 2015, 01:47:00 PM »

Nice work, James. Those small serrations probably are a good idea for bone points.

Sockrsblur · « **Reply #15 on:** March 12, 2015, 02:31:00 PM »

To be honest I found an uncommon and unexpected beauty in the natural materials I tried. What you can create is limited by your imagination and patience.

I was so excited to try new things I kept thinking of that I didn't spend enough time investigating spine changes. Consider longer shafts weaken spine, lighter bone points strengthen spine, shooting around the handle of a self bow requires a weaker Spined arrow, natural shafting can change spine for the first year of drying until it stabilizes, how big does the green diameter of Red Osier Dogwood have to be to yield the spine you seek after a year of drying...
It goes on and on but consider the Zen like moment you learn enough to put a true flying hand made shaft through the rib cage of a whitetail deer. Some thoughts take longer to realize and that's just fine with me. Best of luck Ethan. There are many here that will share what they know and shorten your learning curve.

Cyclic-Rivers · « **Reply #16 on:** March 12, 2015, 05:35:00 PM »

I think those are pretty neat!

when you sand an edge, can you cut yourself On it? do they dull in a quiver quickly? Again, these questions are out of pure ignorance and not trying to start debates on what is better....

Thank you and Cool stuff.

Sockrsblur · « **Reply #17 on:** March 12, 2015, 06:28:00 PM »

Charlie metal points are inarguably superior to bone. I was very careful with the heads, I added Multiple layers of thick fleece in the bottom of quiver. If this makes sense... I didn't feel the sides of the bone blade would outwardly cut me but had great confidence once the tip of the same point was driven into a deer the sides of the blade would open a wound chanel. A little more bow, 60#, added to my confidence and a limited shot distance seemed like a good idea... just my thoughts and no I didn't get it done last year

trying again this year.

cmh · « **Reply #18 on:** March 13, 2015, 12:50:00 AM »

I have alot of moose and caribout antler.... Could you use that? If so it could kill some time and be fruitful as well

newhouse114 · « **Reply #19 on:** March 13, 2015, 02:35:00 AM »

Antler is too soft, Ivory or bone is about as soft as I would go.


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Author Topic: Let's see your bone points?! (Read 499 times)

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