What's a Good Glue to Use to Join Leather with Plastic and Other Leather??

[Nala]

Hey all,

I am making a few tabs and need some glue to use.  I have a plastic type material that I am going to glue leather to and then glue a leather to that piece of leather to back it.  I am going to join the whole thing with some of those screws that you see on tabs that hold them together.

I don't want to use Super Glue, it doesn't seem like it would be the best choice.

You know when you see a tab how it's sandwiched together with a palm plate and 2 pieces of leather or leather and another type of material.  I just need a good glue to join them.

I have some 2 part epoxy I can use if need be.  I want to get some ideas form you all first.

What do you suggest?

Thanks

Nalajr

[drewsbow]

contact cement

[Lassiter]

Rubber cement works well with leather

[Bladepeek]

I second the contact cement, but only at the back edge before the string contact. You don't want the ends of the tab glued together, they need to slide as the flex. Make sense?

[Nala]

Thanks.

I'll pick some up.

Nalajr

[tim roberts]

Barge Cement, best for leather, will do a temporary hold on the plastic until the screws hold it peremantly.
Thanks,

[Stump73]

Ive barg cement on various leather projects with good results.

[Nala]

You know that was my first thought and I have looked in True Value, Wal-Mart, Lowes and Home Depot and haven't seen a single tube.  Strangest thing.  I thought that stuff was available everywhere.

I think the contact cement will be best though.  On the edges, where the palm plate is and there isn't a screw close enough, I don't want that layer to come apart.

Sadly, that stuff too is hard as heck to find.  I have to go all the way to Home Depot to get it tomorrow.

I wish there was something from GORILLA products that would work well.  That stuff is all over the place.  I swear every one of the stores I go in has seemingly every single product that GORILLA has.  There's another brand that also has shelves full of stuff right next to the GORILLA stuff, LOC-Tite.

Can you think of anything that they have that would work just as well as Contact Cement?

Thanks

Nalajr

[Keefer]

Plumbers Goop works well and is waterproof and can be found at Lowes and Home Depot in the isle where the glues are found ..It is sometimes in a purple tube but recently they switched it to a grayish color tube and around $5.00 for a tube bigger then Barge..I have used it on a tab I made once with a rubber pad I added and it worked great holding it on once cured..Doesn't cure as quickly as Barge but will in a few hours ..You can use it on just about anything and it's clear in color..

[katman]

Originally posted by tim roberts:
Barge Cement, best for leather, will do a temporary hold on the plastic until the screws hold it peremantly.
Thanks,

x2

[mahantango]

Any good contact cement will work, but like Bladepeek said, a multi-layer tab needs to be able slip when bent.

[mike g]

I use Tanners Bond Contact cement from the leather factory.

[jhk1]

x2 what Tim from Farr West Leather says-- Barge Cement.  I use it to glue leather grips to my longbows, and for other leather projects.

I get Barge Cement from Ace Hardware.

Jim

[bowhuntingrn]

Finding the "real" Barge cement in the red and yellow tube is next to impossible these days. You can find the "safer" reformulated version in the blue and black tube in most hobby stores. I have tried another contact cement called E6000 recently that isn't bad, but not near what the old Barge was / is. I've also heard "Shoo Goo" is good stuff, but my only experience with it was a total mess.

[Bladepeek]

I really haven't been able to tell any difference in the various brands of contact cements. I use Weldwood that I get at Meijer or Walmart or the local hardware store for my leather projects.

[el chupa nibre]

Originally posted by bowhuntingrn:
Finding the "real" Barge cement in the red and yellow tube is next to impossible these days. You can find the "safer" reformulated version in the blue and black tube in most hobby stores. I have tried another contact cement called E6000 recently that isn't bad, but not near what the old Barge was / is. I've also heard "Shoo Goo" is good stuff, but my only experience with it was a total mess.

I actually prefer Shoe Goo to the typical offerings of barge cement but that may be because I haven't tried the ones that come in the red/yellow tube.

[nleroux2]

I've used most of the industrial contact cement brands, Jet, Barge, Masters etc. in my shop and they all hold about the same. I prefer Masters because it is a bit thinner and spreads easier than Barge. You can get it in gallons or quarts from Springfield Leather just up the road from BW bow Co. I buy about a gallon a month and use it leather to leather, leather to rubber, plastic, wood, rubber to rubber, neoprene, even leather to steel.

 http://springfieldleather.com

[hart2hart]

Glue's OK(Barge,contact,etc) but I've found stitching or rivets(hardware store) do best and add class.The glue just holds everything in place 'til the stitching/rivets are done.
Mike

[Bladepeek]

hart2hart, that's the way I look at it too. The contact cement just holds my leather in place until I stitch it, (but I think it also spreads the load a bit too).

If you look at any of the old knife sheaths, where there was no welt included, the stitching has failed because it was cut by the point or edge of the blade. Good, nylon stitching, if it's protected from abrasion or sharp edges will last forever and two days.