Bare Shafting troubles

[Pettit877]

I'm sure this horse has been beaten to death but I could still use a little help.  I am right handed 27" draw and pulling 60# Let me also add that I am shooting these off of a bear weather rest as well, I am looking to build some heavy carbons so I am shooting 75-95 GTs  I installed 100 grain brass inserts and started with 250gr point and ended with 100gr point and every shaft showed weak.  Now the 100gr point and 100gr insert seemed to be the better of the combos but still fly's weak to the target.

So my question is do I start cutting my arrow down by 1/2" increments or do I have other issues that I am unaware of, I found it odd that 200gr total up front on a 75-95 from a 60# bow would show weak but this is my first time shooting them as well.

Any advice would be great thanks in advance.

Eric

[Phillip Fields]

If you're confident in your form I would cut the arrows. I never cut more than 1/4" at a time off carbons, they can show major changes with minimal length change.

[kevsuperg]

i would think at your draw and weight theses shafts would be stiff.
 i draw 27" @ 47# on my LB and i need 3555 cut at 31" with 175/185 gr up front to get good bareshafts.
 before i would cut your shafts i might think about trying more weight up front, just to be sure you dont have a false weak indication.
also dont know the bows center cut either, closer its cut to center the more range of spine you can get away with.
 good luck, keep us posted on your progress.

[creekwood]

Assuming that whatever shaft you have been shooting before your quest for a heavier shaft has been a result of bare shaft selection, it would be nice to know what that shaft is. Also, what are you seeing that indicates a weak shaft and what distance are you shooting these arrows?  I kind of agree with kevsuperg's post about they might be too stiff.  Sometimes you can get a false reading if the shaft is too far out of the correct stiffness ballpark. And by all means, keep us posted on your progress.

[Pettit877]

Correct yes I am trying to build some carbons that are in the 600-650 range.  these are Gold Tips 75-95.  I was shooting GT 55-75 and was able to get them to shoot decent but finished weight was around 500-530gns.  I have been shooting them from 10-20 yards.  

As soon as they leave the bow I can see them kick to the weak side all the way to the target.  

I did get a chance to shoot a couple with a standard insert with 100gn point and the seemed to shoot better but still on the weak side a bit, which leads me to believe that I can start cutting a little bit at a time.  

It just does not seem right to me that a 75-95 with a 60# bow is weak even with only 200 upfront.

Eric

[creekwood]

OK, so you are saying that they are flying nock left all the way to the target. Is that correct?

[Phillip Fields]

Have you tried Stu's calculator?

[Orion]

When you say kick to the weak side, do you mean they're going/impacting right?  If so, me thinks you wouldn't be able to see them all the way to the target because your bow riser would be blocking your vision.  

If they're flying nock left, there's a good chance they're bouncing off the riser because they're too stiff.  If they're impacting left, they're too stiff.

[creekwood]

In case you haven't seen it, I think this you tube video is one of the best I have seen explaning bare shaft tuning:

//www.youtube.com/watch?v=C_Ff9n9UV3s

[OBXarcher]

I've had some bows / arrow combos that I just could not get to bare shaft, no matter what I tried. Only thing to do then is get some fletched arrows, some with field points and some with broadheads and find the ones that shoot the same. Has worked well for me.

[kat]

You are using a bear weather rest. How far does that move the arrow out from the riser?
How close to center is the riser cut to begin with?

[Pettit877]

Originally posted by creekwood:
OK, so you are saying that they are flying nock left all the way to the target. Is that correct?

Yes correct nock left from bow to target.


"When you say kick to the weak side, do you mean they're going/impacting right? If so, me thinks you wouldn't be able to see them all the way to the target because your bow riser would be blocking your vision.

If they're flying nock left, there's a good chance they're bouncing off the riser because they're too stiff. If they're impacting left, they're too stiff."

They fly nock left and impact right of the intended impact point.

[Orion]

  I don't know.  Guess it's time to start shortening a few shafts as others have suggested and see what happens.  If your shafts are full length, they are much longer than needed for your draw length, and length does soften the dynamic spine.  Good luck.

[**DONOTDELETE**]

Before you start cutting your shafts try bringing the strike plate out some with a piece of card board and tape to start with.... this will tell you right now if those arrows are hitting the shelf or not and giving you a false weak.... If bringing the strike plate out helps the arrow flight then you have two options.... cut your shafts or shim the strike....

btw....cutting your shafts will impact dynamic arrow spine much much more than adding tip weight.

[legends1]

what does the arrow look like when at the target. Im guessing nock right but how much? You want the arrow to be a bit to the right because when you add the feathers it will stiffen the arrow and make it correct.

[Mr. fingers]

Originally posted by Phillip Fields:
If you're confident in your form I would cut the arrows. I never cut more than 1/4" at a time off carbons, they can show major changes with minimal length change.

Agree! Before you cut try the spine calculator on 3 rivers.
Just cut one shaft to start with.