It's always weak!

[Cryogenic]

Ladies and Gentlemen, I once again seek your guidance.

I have tuned a few bows, and I thought I understood the process.  Here's the deal:  I am getting a stiff response regardless of the changes I make.

Setup: RH Dwyer Dauntless, 48# at 28", and I'm drawing 28".  7 inch brace height, dual nock points and 3 under.

All of my arrows are 30 inches.  I like to use 125 grain points and adjust the insert weight to tune.  I started with a GT Trad 3555 (500 spine) with 225 up front (point and insert combined).  Bare shafting at 20 yards showed it to be weak.  I moved to a 5575 (400 spine) with 225 up front, and it was also too weak.  I removed point weight until I arrives at the 5575 with 135 grains total up front.  It still looked too weak. I am getting wear on the inside (belly side) of the strike plate, which is made from soft Velcro.  The fletched arrows wobble side-to-side and the bare shaft cants to the right (nock left, point right) and impacts the target far right of the fletched arrow.

Granted, the stiffer spine isn't as weak, but it's still a problem for arrow flight.

I feel that I should have reached a stiff arrow at this point.

What should I do next?

[jamesh76]

I think they are so stiff your getting a false reading and striking the riser hard which is giving you the wobble.  Trya 1535 with 175-200 grains.

[heartlandbowyer]

I would say it's giving you a false week based off of what I shoot in one of my setups but all bows have their own personality.

With the above rig I shoot GT 55/75 30" 50g brass insert and 175 field point 225 total and draw to 29 and this setup flies like a laser as far as I can shoot it. Oh yeah 58lb bow @29

Cory

[Cryogenic]

That makes sense.  I'll give it a go.  Thank you for the help!

[jamesh76]

I think they are so stiff your getting a false reading and striking the riser hard which is giving you the wobble.  Trya 1535 with 175-200 grains.

[Cryogenic]

1535 with 225 up front at 29.75 inches is what I happened to put together.  They flew better.  They still seem unstable compared to my Hill bow.

I usually start at 15 yards and back out to 25 or 30 to see how the bare shaft flies.  Definitely still magnetic to the right.  I'll shoot again later in the week ans see what happens.

[Nativestranger]

Try 5575 with 100 grain and increase brace height to 7.5". 3555 and 1535 will be way too weak for this bow.

[9 Shocks]

I agree with the 1535 comments.  I shoot around those weights and .600s with 175 up from shoot great for me.  as do .500's around 30 with 200-225 up front.  But most of my rigs I shoot .600s out of.  That being said...also try building the side plate out a little and see what happens.

[Cryogenic]

Increasing brace height from 7 to 7.5 did wonders.

Bare shaft 30 inch 5575 (.400) with 225 up front flew perfect at 20 yards.  Decent at 30.  Fletched arrow flew great out to 40.

I will do this all again over the weekend to make sure it wasn't a fluke.

Thanks to all for the assistance!

[the rifleman]

In my experience there are many folks shooting carbons that are too stiff.  Could be carryover from compound set ups.  I shoot longbows that want a lighter spined arrow.  My bows are in the 42 to 50 pound range and the tune well with 600 s ( 1535 etc) and from 145 to 200 gr up front.  Any tuning issues and I'd almost always say go to a lighter spine.  That being said, your bow (and your form) wants what it wants and you have to let it tell you.  I will take a hit here but I think many of us have form issues that present bareshafting arrows a challenge and sometimes we need to accept " close enough" -- if our broadheads shoot well... It is a journey and in my case as I make what I hope are improvements to my form it reflects in my tuning.  Good luck.

[stonewall]

I shoot a 45# at 26" prairie predator maddog longbow . My arrows are goldtip trads  15
/35 at 28" with 250gr. up front. They fly good'

[BigJim]

Unfortunately many people don't understand or think about the false reading issues or occurances.

For instance, arrows kicking away from the shelf (to the right for a right hand) are known to be too weak, but they can also be too stiff...as a stiff shaft comes through the space between the string and riser angled to the bow, it can't paradox out of the way and makes contact with the bow causing it to kick away from the bow.
With out feathers, this shaft has no way to correct it self and return to a stiff reading thus giving a false reading.

The 3555 could work if longer and plenty of weight up front, but you may also get the 1535 to work too. Check nock height. Three under shooters require a higher nock set of about 5/8" -3/4" or even more...imagine a shaft bouncing off the edge of a rounded shelf. yes, it should give you a "high" read, but it may just kick out to the left (assuming rh shooter) if you have a rounded shelf where the shaft is hitting.

good luck, BigJim