arrows too stiff?

[osagestick90]

I'll try to get out Friday or Saturday to get pics of groups and then try to get them on here if I can

[slowbowjoe]

That sounds good. And tell us what length you want your arrows to be, from valley of nock to back of point…you'll have your spine pretty well narrowed down then.

By the way: if your draw is 28" to the back edge of the broad head, and 28 1/2" on a shaft without a point… not a big difference, but which do you think is more common for you?

[osagestick90]

When I started with it the 28" BOP worked for me but now it seems that it stops me from drawing all the way back

[Nativestranger]

You need to do a bareshaft test. With bareshaft, nock left sticking into target almost always indicate weak and nock right indicate stiff. Hitting left with feathers can mean they are too stiff or too weak. Weak arrows will impact the riser at the nock end causing it to kick away initially. With a bareshaft it will bareshaft plane to impact right as the arrow is pointed right by the nock left caused by riser impact. With a fletched arrow, it will kick left then feathers correct its direction so it stays left and hit left of aim point.

[osagestick90]

So I should strip the feathers off one or two arrows and then shoot them? I don't imagine I'd be able to reuse them afterwards

[Nativestranger]

Wet and flatten the feathers down will do. Test at 7 yards or so see how they stick into target. Or step back 15-20 yards see how they fly and group.

[osagestick90]

Did get to shoot today in the last few minutes of light, managed to lose an arrow in the process. I have pictures of two 3 shot groups but trying to upload from a phone isn't exactly fun

[osagestick90]

[/url] [/IMG]

[osagestick90]

[/url] [/IMG]

[osagestick90]

[/url] [/IMG]

The bow and my first attempted wood arrows

[kevsuperg]

Is it the same arrow that hits left of your group.
 Is the grain of the arrows oriented the same on all arrows .
 I not familiar with Doug fur but I know on POC's, the grain should be horizontal to the bow. Otherwise you can get varying dynamic spines causing fliers

[osagestick90]

It does seem to be the same arrow in both groups, I do have the grain running horizontal. The arrow I missed completely with was also to the left.

These were at 10yds and with what little light I had left I was surprised to even hit it at all

[kevsuperg]

I'd say get rid of that arrow.
Do you spine your arrows or just trust what the seller spines them at.
 Maybe just a off arrow. Missed spined or just a little less than straight. The others looked to be grouping well.

I scanned through this and did not see how they appear to fly on a long shot.  If my wood arrows appear to fly nice and I have one arrow with a mind of its own, I check that arrow for straightness and I change the nock. A slight nock problem can cause a consistent miss.  If my wood arrows appear to fly correct and stable on a long shot and if I do not see any problems with the 'S' curve, I declare that I shot that arrow where it went.  As an example, when I shoot a bow with a deeper sight window and more center shot, even though the arrow may fly correct, my first shots will show that the arrow will hit to the bow side.  If I have been shooting my recurve and then shoot my longbow, the arrow will appear to have moved away from the bow.  I then end up shooting a few arrows intentionally split image aiming, I almost always find that I am pointing the arrow in the direction that arrow is missing. Once the correction is grooved in, things seems to automatically repair themselves.
 He pointed out that he has had an increase in draw length, if he is purely instinctive aiming, there could easily be things going on that can be moving the nock of the arrow to the right side of the sight line at full draw and the arrow is pointing to the left and off the eye line.  I would suggest to make certain that the arrow is under the eye and in line with the target at full draw.  If he is a split finger shooter, I would suggest to anchor with the middle finger on or near the corner of the mouth and cant the bow, if the test shots are being shot downward and only ten yards back, the bow should have a considerable cant.

[osagestick90]

Pavan must have some really good binoculars. Last part of that post described exactly how I was shooting and my anchor, bow kept close to a 30-35° cant and slightly downhill.

This weekend I'll field point all of my remaining arrows and shoot them into a group to see if more of them end up out of the poa

I bought them from 3 rivers about two years ago and I do not have a spine tester and they are all as straight as I can get them

[osagestick90]

Also, I don't shoot over 15 yards... As it was getting dark fast and that's my comfort zone <15yd

I have a really big telescope.  If your form is good try backing up to about 20 yards or longer, it may show you more what is going on.

[osagestick90]

That's another thing, I've no idea if my form is good or really bad as I can't see myself when I'm shooting, but if stepping back is a good way to find out then that is what I'll do

[Nativestranger]

Shooting fletched arrows are not going to tell anything about your arrow tune. Left impact could be stiff arrows, weak arrows or your form.

He is shooting doug fir arrows.  Wood arrows do not work the same for bare shaft testing like foc carbons.