Newbie Question on consistent tip weight

[BayfieldHunter]

I have a newbie question that is pretty basic but here goes.  I am shooting 2016 Eastons from a St. Charles Thunderbird (45# bow at 29" but I am drawing it to almost 30").  Bow and arrow combo shoots best with 145 gr field points.  I plan to small game hunt with this bow.  I use judo points for both small game hunting and stump shooting.  Max available weight for judo points is 125 gr. Also, the broad heads I will shoot are 125 gr heads.  I use screw in field tips and broad heads. I want to keep my arrow weight the same across the board so my tip weight has to be 145 gr as I know that is what shoots best for tips.  Is there a component available that is used at the arrow tip between a tip and the arrow to bump tip weight up 20 grs?  I know that this is a very basic question.  Thanks!

[Msturm]

3rivers sells small "brass weight washers" that go between your head and the insert. That might work. You may also be able to get a slightly heavier insert to add a bit of weight.

[moebow]

Dave,

Msturm is right.  But again, you are talking about approximately a 5# spine change.  I, for one cannot REALLY tell a difference.  And, I'd point out that spines for "Trad" shooting start at 125 grains.  That's the "baseline." I still say you are good to go.

Arne

[McDave]

You can get screw-in broadhead adapters which will let you use the heavier glue on Judo points, or instead of Judo points you can use small game points, available in many weights and sizes, that resist snaking into the grass, although perhaps not as well as Judo points.

Given what you said, I think you will be happier if you just go to 145-150 grain points for everything instead of 125 grain points/broadheads.

[Stump73]

I just got a pack of those washers. They are 5gr each so if you can get 3 of those one judo or broadhead that get you at 140gr. Which would close enough.

[JimB]

I use the weight washers a lot-for tuning only.The reason is the head was made to seat down tight on the insert and the smooth part of the screw in shank  is down in the insert,helping to add strength and stabilize it side to side.The brass washer keeps the  treaded part from going in fully and creates a bearing surface increasing the chance of bending the smooth section above the threads,on any glancing shot.

You can only add a max of 3 washers and at that point,you only have a couple threads engaged and the front end with 3 washers is really floating with increased chance for damage on a glancing shot.

I like the washers for tuning but never use them on any hunting arrows.

You would need a grain scale but you can weigh out a 20 gr piece of small copper wire and wrap that at the back of the head or in the groove just in front of the wire prongs.It isn't a bad idea to weigh your heads prior as they often weigh differently than advertized.

I find glue on heads with a variety of adapters and inserts,far more versatile in achieving an exact,specific weight but your light heads ton give much leeway there.

[maineac]

I agree 150 gr. broadheads will be closer to your best weight.  There are a couple of different small game heads, VPA and 3 rivers both make a good on, that don't dig into grass, that yo can get in 150 grain.

[AZ_Longbow]

I don't sweat 5-30 grains spreads. Soon as you sharpen a blade a few times you'll shave off some grains.