.400 Spine Too Weak For 45lbs @ 31"?

[cloudbaseracer]

So I have tried to bare shaft tune my bow but I cannot get it to correct.  I am getting a point quite a bit to the right with 500 and also 400 spine full length 32" Carbon shafts.  I use 125 grains up front so that is not the problem.  I cannot go any lower with that. I have built out my side plate as well.

All of my fletched shafts whether 500 or 400 spine with either big or small fletching pretty much fly where I need them to.  You would never know this without shooting bare shaft.

The bow is an A&H ACS 64" with a 14" riser that is 37lbs @ 28' if that matters any.  I draw to 31 - 31.25" so it is 45lbs at my draw.

My question is how is it even possible that I am getting this crazy weak reading?

There is nearly no possible way the .400 spine arrows are not too stiff for 45#, esp if you are using a standard insert with a 125gr tip. I think it may be quite possible that there is something else going on in your shot that is causing a false result!

Bisch

[Scott E]

Just shoot them with feathers and if they don't fly crazy and broadheads shoot fine then you're good to go.

Sometimes you can make yourself crazy with tuning.

If it helps I shoot a full length .500 put of all my 45 pound bows with 125 up front and they bareshaft perfect,

[gonefishing600]

Originally posted by Bisch:
There is nearly no possible way the .400 spine arrows are not too stiff for 45#, esp if you are using a standard insert with a 125gr tip. I think it may be quite possible that there is something else going on in your shot that is causing a false result!

Bisch

First of all, you should not accept any advice from anybody unless they have owned, tuned, and shot these bows extensively. A&H bows are a different animal from your average bow. They are cut 3/16 of an inch past center, have extremely fast limbs, and require a stiffer shaft than other bows.

At your draw length, you would probably need to go to a .340 shaft, maybe a .300. I have a 46# and a 48#@28, my draw is 28" and I have to shoot GT .340 cut to 30.5" with 145 grain up front. I can not shoot .400 out of my 46# or my 48#. I have a 43# A&H that shoots my .400 cut to 29.5".

Your not going crazy, welcome to the world of A&H.

[Mr. fingers]

Im shooting 400 spine out of my 50 lb. big Jim buffalo.my arrows are cut to 29. I draw around 27 I have a 100 gr brass insert with a 200 gr. head. I got good bare shaft results as well as good paper tears. Bottom line for any tuning process is good BH flight.

[gonefishing600]

Originally posted by Mr. fingers:
Im shooting 400 spine out of my 50 lb. big Jim buffalo.my arrows are cut to 29. I draw around 27 I have a 100 gr brass insert with a 200 gr. head. I got good bare shaft results as well as good paper tears. Bottom line for any tuning process is good BH flight.

I have owned a Big Jim Buffalo, and currently own a Thunder Child. I'm telling you, these specs are not relevant to an A&H. Apples and Oranges.

[gonefishing600]

Do this, go get yourself some 85 grain tips and I guarantee you, those shafts will fly like darts. So what will that tell you, you will either have to shorten your shafts or get a stiffer spine in order to increase your tip weight.

[cloudbaseracer]

The shafts cannot be shortened! I need all 32" for drawing.

Originally posted by gonefishing600:
 

Originally posted by Bisch:
There is nearly no possible way the .400 spine arrows are not too stiff for 45#, esp if you are using a standard insert with a 125gr tip. I think it may be quite possible that there is something else going on in your shot that is causing a false result!

Bisch

First of all, you should not accept any advice from anybody unless they have owned, tuned, and shot these bows extensively. A&H bows are a different animal from your average bow. They are cut 3/16 of an inch past center, have extremely fast limbs, and require a stiffer shaft than other bows.

At your draw length, you would probably need to go to a .340 shaft, maybe a .300. I have a 46# and a 48#@28, my draw is 28" and I have to shoot GT .340 cut to 30.5" with 145 grain up front. I can not shoot .400 out of my 46# or my 48#. I have a 43# A&H that shoots my .400 cut to 29.5".

Your not going crazy, welcome to the world of A&H. [/b]

If this is true, then I have learned something new today! Never had any experience with that bow, but have had experience with a lot of others. There is not one I have had that would work. Like I said, I learn new stuff all the time. Thanks for being my teacher for the day!!!!

Bisch

[old_goat2]

A&H do indeed like stiffer shafts than most would ever think they need. I'm in the think you might need a full length .340 shaft camp, but might have to move up a little in tip weight and that ain't too bad a thing!

[AZ_Longbow]

Skip the fast flight string and use double the silencers?

[old_goat2]

Oops, double post

[bucksakemmer]

I shot a 47# ACS and because they are cut past center I was shooting 340 ACC, full length

[bucksakemmer]

Let me add to the above post, when I was shooting 250 grain Tuff Heads, I was shooting 300 spine ACC
I have a 29.5" draw lenth

[BigJim]

If you have built out the site window and also continue to lighten the point and bare shaft keeps getting worse, you are experiencing a false reading. Everyone has been trained to believe that nock right is stiff and left week  (for rh shooter )...but what most don't realize is that a stiff shaft can kick right or left. If it is stiff enough that it hits the bow on the way by, it will kick the opposite direction. I even see near perfect bare shaft when the arrow straightened up after hitting riser.if you are shooting spines out of the normal,  good chance you have a false reading.
Bigjim

[Mike Gerardi]

If that's the case with A&H bows needing stiffer shaft, what shafts do people that shoot 60lb A&H use?  340 spine on a 46lb bow seems crazy. I couldnt get 340 eastons to tune to my 61lb recurve.

[meatCKR]

I think Big Jim is on to something.  There is a simple test you could do to see if the arrow is bouncing off the riser.  I've heard of folks using a grease pencil or lipstick to mark the backend of a bare shaft.  Then see if you are getting a mark on the strike plate.

Steve

[old_goat2]

Originally posted by Mike Gerardi:
If that's the case with A&H bows needing stiffer shaft, what shafts do people that shoot 60lb A&H use?  340 spine on a 46lb bow seems crazy. I couldnt get 340 eastons to tune to my 61lb recurve.

Most of them shoot the Dangerous Game 250 spine cut down. ACS and long draw lengths add a whole new layer of difficulty to arrow choice!!!!!!!!!!!!!! My wife shoots .400 spine almost full length from her 40ish#@27" draw ACS recurve with 250gr up front, add 4" of draw and she would have to come way way down in point weight and hers is a Dryad not A&H so it's not cut way past center!

[Mike Gerardi]

Those are impressive specs..I never would of expected that to be the case.

[northener]

I too beleive a 340 spine would have better flight

I have a Dryad ACS RC  48@31" and it takes 340 spine for best results.