Some days...it's hard...

[VA Elite]

after 9 months of shooting I don't what kind of shooter I am. I keep both eyes open but I think I use the tip of the arrow when I shoot..

[Archer1977]

Steve-O, Yeah I knew my bare shafting would not be ideal, so I shot about 10 arrows and took the average each time I made adjustments.

Ive contacted Arne Moe about the video critique, just need to do it.

[Crittergetter]

Learning proper back tension REALLY improved my form and that resulted in better shooting and more consistent groups. That's not to say that I don't have bad days where my mind wanders and I'm not focusing. When that happens I don't think about form and just really focuse on what I'm shooting at and things usually come back together. I'm no expert but back tension and focuse is where it's at for me!

[PaulDeadringer29]

If all you have shot is a one-piece longbow, try a recurve with a riser that has some heft to it and is a good fit for you. Lower the draw weight and your shooting accuracy will improve much faster. Going from a compound to a one-piece longbow is going to be tough for anybody. Good luck and stay with it.

[30coupe]

Here is just a thought. Coming from a compound that probably weighed 4+ pounds to a longbow that probably weighs under a pound can make holding steady and consistently a bit of a challenge. I'm not saying you should ditch the longbow, but you might try adding a bow quiver to your setup, loaded up with as many arrows as it holds less one. The added weight may help you steady your bow arm since you are used to WAY more mass than you are shooting now. Now shoot that one arrow, concentrating on making that ONE shot count. Then go get the arrow and repeat the procedure. Don't take more than a dozen shots in a session for now, but make each shot with that single arrow count. Work on consistency. Make sure you hold your bow arm steady until the arrow strikes the target.

While 48# is not an overly heavy draw weight, you are used to holding probably 15 to 20 pounds with your compound. Taking too many shots in a session leads to fatigue, which leads to poor form, which leads to inconsistent accuracy.

If you can shoot at home, that is a plus. I sometimes just take my bow out and plan to shoot just one shot. I put all my concentration into making that one shot. If you plan to hunt with your bow, chances are you will get just one shot at a game animal. Practicing placing that one single arrow where you want it will pay dividends in the long run.

One more thing: consider taking longer shots than 10 yards, if you have a safe backstop that is. If you are fighting with arrows that are slightly out of tune, 15 to 20 yards may give the fletches time to make the arrows recover and you may find that you are shooting better than you were at 10.

If that is the case, tuning is definitely in order. Personally, I paper tune. I think it makes form less of a factor and just tells me what the arrows are doing. Bare shaft tuning works great if you have consistent form and release, which may not be the case for you.

Hang in there and stick with it. Nothing is more rewarding than taking game with traditional equipment!

[bowhntineverythingnh03743]

I've struggled with shooting at spots, can't do it for the life of me. I am not a target archer, I am a hunter. 3D target or life size paper is all I shoot now. Makes a world of difference for me.

I try to pick a spot on the 3d target, if I miss but still make a lethal kill that's great... if I hit the same spot I was looking at it's even better. I have gotten myself now to where I can consistently on most days hit a 3D deer target in the 10 ring.

Try changing up your target after you find the correct arrow for your bow.

[**DONOTDELETE**]

If you cannot maintain groups smaller than 6" at 10 yards, there is no way you are going to successfully bare shaft tune arrows..... Save bare shaft tuning for later on once you've got your form more consistent..... Traditional archery is about doing the same thing over and over again until it "Becomes " instinctive.

The grip on the bow should be loose and more of a pressure point placement in the same spot each time, rather than a true grip. Rotational draw, solid anchor point, and using even back tension comes with a lot of practice, but that's what it takes to get where you want to be.....

I'd recommend self video so you can see what you are doing and share it with others. It would really help to find other experienced traditional archers to shoot with too.

[Archer1977]

Well this morning I checked my form out in the mirror, and it seemed good. Looked like I am all lined up.

I took a few pieces of advice and was shooting better.

Thinking back I have always been more accurate shooting AT something, not just a spot on a target. So I tied a tennis ball to my target. Second I implemented the KISS principle, as I think I have started thinking too much about everything I am trying to do and just cannot focus on it all and shoot well. Some advice I got was to think anchor, aim, release. Those two got me shooting much better again. Thanks for all the advice.

[Tater John]

After you've done everything else, grab a lighter weight bow, like a 40#'er

[kennyb]

Jason-
First remember you just started this trad stuff. It does take a long time to get good! I'm in my 6th year and just now consider myself a good shot.
Very much like you, no instinctive shooters to help me either; totally self taught with the help of G. Fred Abel's books and this website! Terry Green has some good video too!
Like Crittergitter stated: it's about the focus & back tension. Don't keep your elbow up so high! It inhibits the back muscles.
Good luck my friend. PM me if you want some help!

Kenny    

[Archer1977]

Kenny, I draw my elbow straight back pretty much in line with the arrow. You recommend something different?

Yeah Ive read Asbell's books too. Ive discovered that I am taking bits and pieces from several people to develop my own "style" I suppose, maybe process is a better word.

[woodchucker]

In the 1st place..... Stop trying to shoot "groups"!!!

Groups are a "sight thing" (like sighting in a gun, or a compound)

What you are looking for is "consistency"!!!!! Shoot one arrow at a time. Literaly take your bow, and ONE arrow out to shoot. Stand about 5 yards from the target, shoot your arrow, go get it..... It will come!!! When you start to get consistent,(probly in a day or two) then take one step back. Gradually, work your way back from the target over time.....

Your effective range, will be whatever range you can consistently put EVERY arrow in the kill zone. If it's only 10 yards, Go Hunting!!! Just set yourself up for 10 yard shots.

It takes time!!!!! However, If you work at it, you can actually get pretty consistent in a week or two!!!!!

[Petrichor]

KEEP THE FAITH.....IT IS REWARDING!!!!!

[snakebit40]

If your wanting quick resutls, you can't beat shooting 3 under and gapping. That's of course after you've got your form down solid.

I wouldn't get so caught up on creating an "identity" as far as, I'm a split finger instinctive traditional bowhunter. Just do what works for you. Try everything.

It's probably been said, I haven't read every post, but get your stance, grip, anchor (even though it's more of a reference point because you never stop pulling), and back tension down. I would blind bale for awhile till everything starts feeling natural. Then you will gain that consistancy in your form. After all that, try that 3 under gap style. I think you'll very surprised how accurate you can be with a trad bow.

[Manitoba Stickflinger]

Haven't read all the posts here but some things to consider if they have not been brought up.

Have you done a solid eye dominance check?

Have you tried deep hooks or a single deep hook with 2 floating fingers?

Read you are shooting 500's. What grain tips?

[Petrichor]

3 under made a huge difference to me being crosseye dom. Did gap for a bit to get the form and back to instinctive and getting great results.... Gap shooting is really cool and easy to do. From what I understand most shoot three under when gapping.

[Nantahala Nut]

I know what your going through. I hit a wall this year as well. For me it was getting the bow and arrows tuned right.  Three under was much easier to learn than split as well.  Put an old pin sight on so you can take some of the aiming part out and work on form.  Once I took it off I shot just as good without it.

[Izzy]

Like Axel Rose says "just a little patience, yeah, yeah...." Hang in there, very rare that you become Howard Hill overnight. In my opinion, to be proficient in this game, takes familiarity with the whole process, that takes time. Fun, rewarding time. Just enjoy the journey.

[old_goat2]

Lessons from a qualified archery coach/instructor will pay for themselves many many times over. I gave a guy just a couple pointers the other day and he went from being all over the bag to hitting the spot he wanted. Problem is and I know this from my own experience, is you think you are doing something when in reality your not anywhere close! Good luck man, seek out professional help, it's always the best thing to do with any addiction;-)

[Ray Hammond]

talk to my friend Kasey Karson...he's on here. His avatar name is  Kasey and he's in Sevier County TN