Aluminum arrow question.

[Dorado]

I've managed to get my hands on a dozen xx75 2213 aluminum arrows. I was wanting to try them out, but I'm not sure if they'd be safe in either of my bows. I'm getting conflicting numbers from the different spine calculators I've tried so I thought I'd ask y'all.
The arrows are Easton superlite xx75 camo hunters 2213. From BOH to valley of the glued on nock is 34 1/8" They look like they've never been shot.
I know I can't shoot these from my Bear Polar as it's 57# at my draw. But I might be able to use them in my Samick Sage, it's 35#. I'd like to set them up for small game and stumping.

I don't mind cutting them down to the right length and I'd like to get as heavy a head as I can. I just don't know where to start.

[Archie]

What's your draw?  That's important.  

They wouldn't take much abuse, as the sidewalls are pretty thin.

[Dorado]

Oh, I forgot to add that in didn't I.
My draw is 29"

I figured these would be fairly fragile That's why I thought that they'd work better in my Sage.

[Jon Stewart]

I checked an old Easton chart and it says that  a 29" draw in a 35# bow should use 1818,1914 or 1916's.

[Bob Moran]

2213s will be too stiff for your 35# bow, if that matters to you. They would be a better match for your 57# bow. The Easton spine chart shows 29 and 30" arrows to match your 57# bow, depending upon point weight etc. Aluminum arrows are not "fragile" and if you damage one it is readily apparent, unlike carbon. They can even be straightened if not too badly bent.

[Dorado]

Originally posted by Bob Moran:
2213s will be too stiff for your 35# bow, if that matters to you. They would be a better match for your 57# bow. The Easton spine chart shows 29 and 30" arrows to match your 57# bow, depending upon point weight etc. Aluminum arrows are not "fragile" and if you damage one it is readily apparent, unlike carbon. They can even be straightened if not too badly bent.

My Easton chart shows that at 30" with a 125gn head, that the 2213 are rated at 34-38#. Every source I get a different suggestion. Some say that it'd be fine. Others say to weak, some say too stiff. I was hoping I could use my 200gn hex heads on these.

Here's what my calculator says.
2213 @ 31" with 150gn head 3x4 feathers. I have a dynamic spine of 53.1#
Samick sage 35# has a dynamic spine of 54.1#.

[**DONOTDELETE**]

I killed a lot of elk with 2213 shafts, but they would be no good for stump shooting at all...they bend pretty easily IMO. i used them for many years in a compound bow at 80+ pounds for both 3D and hunting.... but they were only 26" long too...

They may shoot  out of your 57#bow at 29" with 100 grain points, but..... they are going to be ultra light weight. Most likely around 400-425 grains.... i don't think i'd recommend 7.5 gpp for any trad bow. That's borderline, or below recommended arrow  weight on most bows.

[Dorado]

Originally posted by Kirkll:
I killed a lot of elk with 2213 shafts, but they would be no good for stump shooting at all...they bend pretty easily IMO. i used them for many years in a compound bow at 80+ pounds for both 3D and hunting.... but they were only 26" long too...

They may shoot  out of your 57#bow at 29" with 100 grain points, but..... they are going to be ultra light weight. Most likely around 400-425 grains.... i don't think i'd recommend 7.5 gpp for any trad bow. That's borderline, or below recommended arrow  weight on most bows.

That's why I was thinking of a heavy weight head and using it with my 35# bow. Using 150gn heads @ 31" I have 13gpp and a total arrow weight of 484gn. I got these arrows free, just seems a waste to not use them.

[Straitshot]

Don't know if this helps but I have shot 29" 2213's with 175 gr. up front for several years from my 50#@28" recurves and I draw between 27 1/2 and 28 inches. They shoot great. I use to use 125 gr. up front but switched to 175 gr. about three years ago. Like KirkII though I don't think I would shoot them stumping since they are pretty thin walled.

[Jon Stewart]

cut them, point them up and shoot them.  If they fly, you got a good deal.

[Archie]

I tried 2213's in my 48@31" longbow (41@28), and at 31 1/2" long, out of a 31" draw, they were too weak.  If I remember correctly, I was using 125 grains up front as well.

It sure seems to me like 2213's would be too weak for a 57# bow, especially at a 29" draw.  You could add some weight inside the shafts to stiffen them up though, by sucking some shaft-bending energy out of the bow as it deals with the increased mass weight.

[ksbowman]

I've shot 2213 and 2215 for 25-30 years. 30 1/2" long out of 54-64# bows and they shoot good with 145 to 160 gr broadheads. The 2215's are tougher though. When I am hunting tougher critters I even use 2216's on the same bow weights.

[Dorado]

Originally posted by ksbowman:
I've shot 2213 and 2215 for 25-30 years. 30 1/2" long out of 54-64# bows and they shoot good with 145 to 160 gr broadheads. The 2215's are tougher though. When I am hunting tougher critters I even use 2216's on the same bow weights.

So the last two numbers denote sidewall thickness?

I've never shot aluminums before, I'm still relatively new at archery in general.

[Straitshot]

Yes the last two numbers denote wall thickness in thousands. The first two are shaft diameter in 64ths. So a 2213 is 22/64ths of an inch in diameter with a wall thickness of .013. If I remember correctly.

[Archie]

Yes, the last two numbers denote wall thickness.  The first two are a measurement of the overall girth, but I don't remember if it is diameter, or circumference.  

I've only shot aluminums, and I've been involved in shooting a bow for over 30 years.  I have shot some carbons before, but to me, the aluminum shaft gives me all I want in an arrow.  

Since you're new to aluminums, here's a tip that I learned the hard way... When you cut your shafts to length, don't use a pipe cutter.  It creates a small crimp in the shaft, and you'll likely need to de-burr the edges as well.  That creates a small ramp on the inside of the shaft, and facilitates the insert getting jammed into the shaft when the arrow hits something solid, blowing out the end of the shaft.  When cutting shafts, I use a Dremel tool and a jig I came up with.  That gives me a flush edge to butt the rim of the insert up to.  Maybe you already know this, but just in case you didn't, here it is.  It cost me a bunch of shafts, and I ended up having to fix another 2 1/2 dozen before the same thing could happen to them.

[Dorado]

Originally posted by Archie:
Since you're new to aluminums, here's a tip that I learned the hard way... When you cut your shafts to length, don't use a pipe cutter.  It creates a small crimp in the shaft, and you'll likely need to de-burr the edges as well.  That creates a small ramp on the inside of the shaft, and facilitates the insert getting jammed into the shaft when the arrow hits something solid, blowing out the end of the shaft.  When cutting shafts, I use a Dremel tool and a jig I came up with.  That gives me a flush edge to butt the rim of the insert up to.  Maybe you already know this, but just in case you didn't, here it is.  It cost me a bunch of shafts, and I ended up having to fix another 2 1/2 dozen before the same thing could happen to them.

I did not know that. I was just going to use a small pipe cutter to cut them to length. Thanks for that info. I'll see if I can rig something up that I can use. If nothing else I can probable use the pipe cutter to mark a straight line around the shaft and cut with a fine hacksaw.

[dirtguy]

Hey Dorado, I'd just try them out on the 35# bow.  The Easton Chart I have says they are only a little too stiff.  I've found that with aluminum anyway, a little adjustment of point weight (which you are already considering) and they will fly pretty well.

[Ryan Rothhaar]

Whaaat?  guess I don't know what the spine charts mean... or maybe the dudes that make them up are smoking something. I killed a bunch of stuff with 2213s out of 50-55 lb black widow recurves in the 1990's, beautiful flight at 28 inch draw with big Snuffers (200 grains with screw in insert).  Wonderful arrows, except they bend easy.  As I recall those arrows weighed around 520 grains... not exactly super light hunting arrows.  I keep several dozen 2213 shafts around from the good ol days, just in case.  Maybe the new wheelie bows are that different, but a 2213 out of a 35 lb recurve will fly sideways.

R

[Wheels2]

First two digits are the diameter in 1/64"
Second two digits at individual wall thickness.
So a XX75 2213 in 22/64" in diameter and the wall is .013" thick.

[Straitshot]

It isn't my intent to put out unsound advise or to be controversial. I can only speak from experience. Though certainly not nearly as good as a shaft cut off saw, I used a small tubing cutter and a hand held cartridge case trimmer for many years to cut aluminum shafts. You just have to go easy with the tubing cutter and not try to cut the shaft in to the first go-round. It is also good to have a good tubing cutter with a clean sharp wheel. After cutting the shaft with the tubing cutter use the case trimmer to square the end as it will be rough. I also used a cartridge case deburring tool on both the inside and outside of the shaft. The insert will then fit up very squarely and uniformly to the shaft. I emphasize again don't try to cut the shaft too quickly with the tubing cutter. Tighten it slightly every few revolutions until the shaft is cut in to. That way you don't force the aluminum to crimp inward. And you will need a cartridge case trimming tool or something equivalent to square the end of the shaft. I do not recommend a hack saw as it will only make matters worse.