When swapping from standard diameter to micro-diameter arrows

[DanielB89]

I am wondering if you guys find you need a stiffer shaft or the same? etc.  


I find that I always have to shoot "stiffer than usual" shafts.  For instance, I have a Centaur Triple carbon that is 52@29, i draw to 29.5.  What spine do you think should be shot for that?  

I always bareshaft.  It is really the only way I know how to do it.  So I have some .400 spine regular diameter(5/16) that I could not trim short enough to get to paper tune perfect.  I also have some 5/16" .350's, I could get them to bareshaft perfectly, but the problem is the arrow is only 30" long and my broadhead hits my finger if I don't have it lined up perfectly.  

I found a good deal on some .300 spined arrows that are microdiameter arrows.  I shot them full length and they flew great!  They were slightly weak at full length(32.5").

Does that seem right?

[**DONOTDELETE**]

I think the variable is whether you use your strike plate thickness to fine tune your arrows or not bro.

I think you'll find the spine of the shaft needed won't change at all if you maintain the same center shot location.... You have the same amount of force forcing the arrow into paradox regardless of shaft diameter...... shimming out the strike plate just a fuzz can make a huge difference.

Now if you do jump up in spine & bring your arrow closer to true center shot, you are going to notice a difference on your point of impact going right on a right handed bow until you adjust your sight picture accordingly.

[DanielB89]

Kirk,

thank you for your response.. so my question is.. I have some .350 spines that are 30" and tune perfectly and some .300's that are full length(32" plus the outsert).  I am thinking that 2" would be make it about the same spine. Plus it being closer to center with the microdiameter arrows.  I always read people saying the arrow is so stiff if gives a false reading, I am just trying to see if this arrow could possible be giving me a "false weak".  

I know I see big him post about that a lot, and I know he knows his stuff much better than I, as many of you do!

[PastorSteveHill]

Dano'...  From my experience with centaurs...

Use the .400 spine.  It may show a little weak bareshafting, but with a broad head it will be perfect..  

I worked on getting a perfect bareshaft and needed a .340 and with a broad head it went so far left i totally missed the target.  

Also with micro diameter shafts, you may hit a little to the right at first, but that is because of the diameter.. You will quickly adjust...


Same with Wood arrows, I always hit left with them at first until I make the adjustment mentally...  

Blessings pal..

[BWallace10327]

Seeing as I snap shoot while lining up my arrow tip in my peripheral vision to a predetermined point, my point of impact was low right the few times I've tried micro diameter arrows. They were the same spine and length as my gold tips, similar weight and identical field points.  They flew great, but I would have trouble if there was a mix of each shaft in my quiver.

[DanielB89]

bringing this back up to the top..

Steve, I do not think the .400's will work at all.. the .340's only bare shaft properly when they are cut right past my riser.  

The full length 300 is over 2" longer than the .340.  

I am just wondering if you guys think this arrow is too stiff for this draw weight?  It does fly slightly weak as a bareshaft.  


Also, to remind, this is the only way I know how to get bbroadheads and field points to fly perfectly the same, is there is a better way, let me know!!!

[**DONOTDELETE**]

Originally posted by DanielB89:
Kirk,

thank you for your response.. so my question is.. I have some .350 spines that are 30" and tune perfectly and some .300's that are full length(32" plus the outsert).  I am thinking that 2" would be make it about the same spine. Plus it being closer to center with the microdiameter arrows.  I always read people saying the arrow is so stiff if gives a false reading, I am just trying to see if this arrow could possible be giving me a "false weak".  

I know I see big him post about that a lot, and I know he knows his stuff much better than I, as many of you do!

Daniel,  Don't over think it.... if you just adjust your strike plate out a fuzz, & i think you'll get good arrow flight with those micro diameter shafts .... where you may end up with issues is trying to set up EFOC shafts with tiny straight fletching..... i gave up that non sense myself and went back to a 4" helical and quit pulling my hair out.....shooting broadheads is like putting wings on the front of a rocket. they fly much nicer with wings on the back to stabilize the flight.

[DanielB89]

Thank, Kirk.

I was wondering exactly how I was going to fletch these little buggers.  I have never fooled with them.  I guess I should say that these are not the super micros, these are just a little smaller than your standard shaft, but they do make the bow truly center shot.  .300 spine seems awefully stiff for a #53 bow, but i guess I have to trust the arrows..

[tomsm44]

If you don't adjust your strike plate, the smaller diameter arrow will tune 'weaker' than the same spine larger arrow, and possibly even a weaker spine larger arrow.  I did something similar last year.  I got a 42# bow but didn't have any arrows spined that low and knew it would be a while before I could buy any.  I dug around in my dads storage building and found 11 of the old small diameter carbons from the late 80s or early 90s.  Not sure how they rated the spines on them back then, but they had 60-70# on them.  The smaller diameter puts the centerline closer to center (kinda like cutting the shelf closer to or further past center) and they tuned perfectly where a weaker standard diameter carbon that I had wouldn't.  They're also pretty heavy, which I like.

[DanielB89]

thanks, Matt.  I knew that my making the strike plate thinner it would make the arrow impact more right, I guess I just didn't connect the dots for the smaller diameter "thinning the strike plate".  


Thanks fellas.  I will try to get them fletched up and see how they work out.

[ShinBone]

HI:

i KNOW THIS is an old thread.  I did do a search that is how I found the thread.

I shoot a recurve DX5 15 inch DAS riser.  I want to shoot skinny arrows off the shelf.  Is it easy to put feathers on these microdiameter arrows?

It seems that some of the guys in the thread are saying that they put feathers on the microdiameters.  I would like to do that and shoot off shelf.

I want to get the 400 or 340 spined centershot; DX5 with 50# foam core carbon limbs DAS limbs.

thank you.

[Orion]

It's no problem fletching Easton Axis shafts with feathers.  Unless you're really going to load the front end, 400 spined micro shafts should work for your DX5.

[McDave]

I find that the Bitzenberger has a little too much helical to easily fletch VAPs.  I use a Martin J8, which has slightly less helical than the Bitz, and seems a little easier for me to use on skinny arrows.

[Tedd]

The .300 is too stiff. (unless you have 400+ grains up front) You are sliding or bouncing off of the strike plate probably.
Is there are graphics on the shaft, see if it is worn. Or put some thin paint on the back 1/3 of the shaft. You'll probably get a mark where the arrow and strike plate bump. 52 lbs probably needs a .400 shaft.
Tedd