help ! arrow tuning.... again

[stretch_it]

im lookin for that perfect arrow flight and i know some bare shaft tuning should help get me there but i was hoping to jump straight to third base with help of trad gang !!!!  i gotta 48@28 reflex/deflex longbow. im drawin 29-29.5 i would like to see a 30.5  inch arrow ... what spine/point weight and total weight would those of you that hunt and shoot 3d with the same arrow use? i currently have 400s uncut un shot and ready for some decision making but considering selling them if they dont fly like darts ....three rivers chart is telling me a 340 with 200 gr pw which sounds pretty stiff but idk . ps im kinda new to trad thanks for any help you have offer

[Msbow]

Ide keep the arrows you have and just play with them till you get them right. There's all kinds of things you can do to make those work, but most everyone on here will tell you to start off with the right spine to begin with.

You really need to shoot them to see what YOU need. Just put you arrows together with what you have on hand and see how they fly. The arrows you have will work if you tune them.

[BigJim]

For your set up, you would typically need a 500 spine arrow. If you are set on cutting your 400's down, you may have issues.
You will/may be able to make the 400's work by leaving them long and adding weight up front. Set them up the way you want and then try. Only cut after you know what you are seeing is a "true" reading and not a false one.

340's are definitely too stiff and if the 400's show weak, there is something wrong!! Be very careful of false readings! stiff arrows frequently bounce of the bow (shelf or riser contact) and can give you a weak reading.

If you get a weak reading from the 400's, check out all of your avenue's...as they should be good, or ok at best but likely too stiff.

One common issue for three under shooters that will give a false reading is the shaft bouncing down and hitting the shelf. If you shoot three under, you will have a higher nock point...typically between 5/8"-3/4" and if your arrow nocks fit the string properly (tight enough to stay on the string...but loose enough to move and release easily) the arrow will dive down after release and make contact with shelf. A second nock point (typically a tied on nock) below the arrow will alleviate this issue.

You will get lots of advice, but nothing replaces proper efforts on your part. You would be surprised at how many of those "darts" are deceiving and more like lame ducks.

Another note: A properly tuned arrow will not touch the shelf/bow after the string has been  loosed. If you are experiencing shelf/side plate wear, it can be time to investigate.

good luck, BigJim

[stretch_it]

thank you both .big jim i believe you hit it right on the nail... those charts can definately not be right i got out some today and continued to add weight to a full length 400 and ended up with over 400 grains out front before that arrow seemed to fly right 300 gr f.p. with  slip on rubber blunt... and thats ridiculous so i will  be hopefully selling 400s and buying 500s haha.. what a learning curb that was.

[maineac]

I use 500's for everything from 45# to 57# with slight variations in length or tip weight.  Get close with the arrows you have (I bought a wide variety of  tips weights and shot a bare shaft arrow with different weight tips till the flight looked straight), fletch and shoot until you feel your form has really settled in ( I apologize if your post # leads me to assume you are fairly new to trad).  Once you have your form and are grouping arrows really well, fine tune your arrows more.  Just my 2 cents.

[stretch_it]

thanks maneac ....groupin better already

[LostNation_Larry]

Another factor that changes things quite a bit is the string.  If you are shooting B50 (or B500 or B55) you will need a lower spine than the low stretch materials like Fast Flight.  I have a 40# bow that loves 400's but there is more to the story.  Big Jim's recommendation of 500's is spot on.